Basic Training for MoE Scout Masters

This week PARSA launched our first Basic Course for training new Scout Masters, with 60 Scout Masters from the Ministry of Education from around the country. Most notable is that there are 19 women in the group, even from as far away as Helmand. This represents our breakthrough in working with the Ministry of Education and is an extraordinary accomplishment.

All the Scout Masters in the training are staying in the dormitories at PARSA and it is cold!!! But they are incredibly enthusiastic and no one is complaining. They have had daily activities and have shown great progress as a group. Tamim and Yasin have put forth an incredible coordinated effort and it has shown in the training infrastructure they have put in place.

PARSA is Learning How to Bring about Social Change

As we reach out to connect with our supporters around the world, I find that it is hard to explain the day-to-day effort that anchors us and allows us to thrive given the difficult circumstances we face. Afghanistan has been downgraded from a “post-conflict” country to a “conflict” country this year. Our beneficiaries have more dire situations than we have experienced at PARSA since 2004.

But also this year we turned a corner in our campaign to establish a National Afghan Scout program, and the eight-year struggle is a story unto itself. In my role as Executive Director, I have been committed to mentoring and supporting Afghan leadership for the duration of my tenure here and this year we are seeing the emergence of Afghan leaders at PARSA. The behind-the-scenes story is full of heartache, tears, anger, disappointment, and “soldiering on” when we are short of resources, and facing insurmountable obstacles. The backbone of our work is the vision and commitment of our staff. As Yasin Farid, our country director says” PARSA is today what Afghanistan will be tomorrow.”

I was in an interview with a bright young woman who will be joining us in the Scout program with Tamim and Yasin. “Can I have a three-day orientation to my job?” she asked. Tamim laughed and said, “Everyday at PARSA is an orientation to your job!”

Read More Continued

What he meant, after working at PARSA for 8 years is that a visionary leader working for a future that is counter to the prevailing status quo does not have a clear and set forward direction. We have to learn how to move forward from making mistakes, and from a daily honest evaluation of the impact of our work on our beneficiaries and figuring out where we have fallen short. It takes more humility than most of us naturally possess but we are all more dedicated to our Afghan people than our egos.

Our days are made up of a struggle to stay on top of the chaos of working with people in need while doing administration tasks. The traditional organization in Afghanistan tends to rigid authoritarianism, and we have had to learn how to communicate, ask for help, trust, spontaneously problem solve and take care of each other on this journey we call “PARSA”.

This year, we dedicated ourselves to empowering Afghan women, but the decision came after we took a hard look at our organization and discovered that women in our organization had dropped away for many reasons and the leadership was primarily male. Although resources for programs is always needed in our case, we also decided we were simply not paying attention enough to how to have PARSA be an incubator for women leaders, and we decided to make our year about learning how to have PARSA foster women leaders…but really. This is not an easy task in Afghanistan- not only because the social environment is hostile to women leaders but because of how Afghan girls are raised to perceive themselves. And the result of empowering girls and women is not easy to manage in an organization because it usually means that they have given themselves permission to start giving voice to their opinions.

Yasin recently had to mediate a staff altercation with Simin, our cleaner and a couple of male staff members. As a part of our work with our female staff we helped them plan their career advancement at PARSA, and Simin, who is an orphan and responsible for her brother financially, decided she wants to become a professional chef, and as she is illiterate began literacy lessons with Sahela our social worker. She had a disagreement with two of our professional staff over a task she felt was unpleasant and unnecessary, and when they insisted that it was her job she lost her temper and indicated that she thought they were big donkeys. This is probably the highest insult one can make in Afghan society and created quite a stir, in a hectic day for Yasin. But he left his meeting smiling. “We are on track with our commitment to PARSA women this year, ” he said. “I know that the insult was not professional, but a year ago Simin would not have spoken up for herself!”

In my own lessons learned in my job at PARSA, I have had to work to embrace the difficulties I have faced, persist, and grow in ways I did not even know I could. I have also learned that strife, upset, and conflict often precedes fundamental social change. I am gifted with staff that has learned this with me. Together, we have built PARSA into an organization that is now a potent force for change in Afghanistan. The legacy of rebuilding the national Afghan Scout program in Afghanistan is PARSA’s, recognized by President Ghani, and certified by the Ministry of Education. Our new programs, Sisters 4 Sisters, the Healthy Afghan Professional Woman’s Support groups are on the same path. We thank you for your support on this journey. You are the “small group of committed citizens” that Margaret Mead refers to in her quote, and I want you to know that your commitment is paying off. Many of you have been with us over the years. I appreciate your long-term support for us. This is what has given us our future.

PARSA Giving Campaign Catalog of Pictures

PARSA Giving Campaign

To join or renew your PARSA Family Membership please choose your level of giving:

Shura $50-225

Jirga $250-450

Sarparast $500 or above

Make your Donation to PARSA Family Member Program– we will send you a receipt and process your order.If you have chosen a level that includes a framed picture please send your order with the number of the picture you would like to

Gift Catalog for Pictures- Framed

 #  Picture  Caption  8 x 11  11 x 14
1   Young Afghan Girl Scout from “Marastoon” residence for orphans in Kabul. She is saluting with one hand colored in traditional henna markings. Reese Hume, 2011   NA 
2   Class of girls who participated in an Afghan Scouts basic training with their teacher in Ghor.
Reese Hume, 2010
3   Young girl who was taking part in a PARSA kindergarten class in Jawzareen Valley, Bamiyan Province. Reese Hume, 2010    NA
4   Young girl peeking out of the door of her house with her mother in the background and a traditional millstone. Jawzareen Valley, Bamiyan Province.
Reese Hume 2008
5   Taher, PARSA operations manager for Bamiyan province holding a baby in traditional swaddling in Jawzareen Valley, Yateemak. Michael Jardine 2015    
6                 Mother and children who had recently lost their father/husband to a Taliban assassination outside of Chagcharran, Ghor province.
Reese Hume, 2010
7   Curious children in Jawzareen Valley, Bamiyan Province.
Reese Hume, 2011
8   Three Afghan Girl Scouts, Kabul
Michael Jardine 2015
9   Taher, PARSA Bamiyan Province manager at BandiAmir Lakes waterfall.
Michael Jardine, 2015
10   Farmer on road to Jawzareen Valley, Bamiyan Province.
Michael Jardine, 2015
11   Farmer outside of his house in Yateemak, Jawzareen Valley, Bamiyan Province.
Michael Jardine, 201512
12   Children at a PARSA kindergarten class in Yateemak, Jawzareen Valley, Bamiyan Province.
Reese Hume, 2011
13 Woman and her children who live in a nearby cave waiting for donated supplies during a PARSA Afghan Scout community service distribution. Bamiyan City.       Reese Hume, 2014    
14   Young girl who received clothing and a pretty hat during an Afghan Scout community service distribution in Bamiyan City.
Reese Hume, 2014
15   A cook at the national orphanage in Chagcharran, Ghor province.
Reese Hume, 2010
16   Young girl who attends a PARSA kindergarten in a cave near Bamiyan city.
Reese Hume 2011
17   Young boy who lives in a cave home near Bamiyan city.
Reese Hume 2011
18   An older gentleman encountered in a trip through Takhar province in northern Afghanistan.
Reese Hume, 2013
19   Young boy in a private orphanage working on a PARSA project.
Reese Hume 2012
20   PARSA horse master preparing a horse for riding at PARSA Main offices in Marastoon.
Michael Jardine, 2015
21   View of Bamiyan City from the Buddha caves.
Michael Jardine 2015
22   Bandiamir lake, Bamiyan province.
Michael Jardine, 2015
23   Teacher at a PARSA literacy class for young women in Dashti Barchi, Kabul
Michael Jardine, 2015
24   Children at an orphanage in Taloqan, Takhar province,
Reese Hume 2014
25   Girls at PARSA offices in Bamiyan getting ready for a girl Scout meeting.
Reese Hume ,2014


Letter to PARSA Family Sept 28

Dear PARSA Family Members,

I recently returned from the US, and as I tend to do I walked around PARSA looking at what happened while I was gone, and appreciating what our PARSA staff is doing.  We moved to Marastoon 11 years ago, and when we moved in to this large compound, sharing with Marastoon residents and Afghan Red Crescent Society staff we spent two years just trying to get the guards not to beat the local children who came to the school onsite every day. Yesterday, I went out of my residence, (which Miroweis and Mike Boisvenue are painting) and visited our Afghan Scouts team who are hosting a Scout Master Advanced Training workshop for volunteers from all over the country. Tamim and his staff were working under the mulberry trees with the Pakistani Master Trainers from the World Organization of the Scout Movement, a complete detour from the heated political climate between Afghanistan and Pakistan. The girls in our Sisters 4 Sisters program were in the “restaurant” meeting with a renowned civil rights leader and activist.  One of our partner organizations, Free to Run, is preparing for the first Kabul marathon for girls and women next weekend, on our premises.

If you read the news, success in Afghanistan seems to be impossible. I would call PARSA the organization of impossible projects. I have worked here now for 12 years and it feels like I have been on a non-stop uphill trek over terrain not meant to be traversed.  To work here includes experiencing obstacles to our work that never seem to stop.  We have shaky infrastructure, poorly and quickly built that yields constant power outages, water stoppages, Internet instability, traffic jams, security alarms, topped off by the government’s tendency to frequently call holidays the day before the event.  Government staff intent on monitoring our programs in detail, sending frequent auditing teams and changing policy weekly requiring constant vigilance and “word-of-mouth” sharing of information so as to keep our programs going.  And that is just in Kabul.  Each province seems to have its own separate administration and rules and we work in 18 of them. During the course of trying to complete this letter to you, I dealt with a broken power cord and dying computer, ran out of phone credit so I could not call anyone to get to the computer store and our internet stopped working, and then there was a bomb blast on the front road of our large compound that shattered some of our windows.  I finally turned to my husband and said, “I can either lay on the floor and throw a hysterical fit or you need to help me.” An hour and a half later with his compassionate assistance I was back on track and working again.

I read articles about corruption and how NGOs are wasteful and spend money unmonitored and have access to funds I have never seen.  There are days that Yasin and I have to scrape together $3 for bread for our staff for lunch and it is all duly documented and taken from the right places.  If there were “corruption lessons” we didn’t learn them, and there are many other organizations like my own here just working through the mess the day brings, staying on track and really, really creating miracles.

Our Scouts program is an impossible project.  We have been battled by ministries for 8 years, because they see NGO programs as a threat to government control and resources.  We created the program for orphans initially and we are finally bringing it to communities all over Afghanistan. We have been critical to getting four national orphanage directors fired for overseeing or being part of systemic abuse. Our Trade Afghan Businesswomen’s Network is impossible as Afghans do not coordinate well and although there is a market for their businesses, at the most fundamental level it is hard for our women to produce consistent, quality products.  Our PARSA Job Corps program is impossible because rather than opting for a program where the youth are only lectured at and never get hands-on experience (it is possible to be trained as a veterinarian at Kabul University for five years and never touch an animal), we instead chose to work with the youth as they learn and earn a stipend, giving them constant training and support while they are doing the job.  Our Sisters 4 Sisters program is impossible because after all these years doing training in women’s programs, we’ve learned that teaching Afghan women to actually support each other is the most challenging thing to do, because in this terribly war-damaged country women are often each others’ enemies.

What do we have? We are positioned in all of our programs to make a national impact, coordinate with other outstanding agencies, and change the social landscape by promoting Afghan leaders, volunteers, women and youth as assets that are worth investing in.  It has been endurance and persistence that have allowed us to persevere, along with one other quality that is fundamental to the Afghan character. That quality is that we rely on each other, troubleshoot together, and realize that our work is deeply personal and fulfilling and worth doing.  And that is where you come in, as wherever you are in the world it is your $3 that we find to pay for our bread and it is your funds that help us keep going when our local contracts with embassies or other granting agencies are delayed or fall through.  You are with us and we feel your support keenly.  In 2018, you will see us reach out and find ways to connect that let those that want to have a more meaningful and continuous relationship with us do so, such as through the Mentorship program for Sisters 4 Sisters or through Scout Troop exchanges. So far this year 85 donors have been a part of our PARSA Family Member program and we know more of you will rejoin our Family Members before the end of the year. You as a donor are allowing us to continue to be viable in this very difficult year. That is amazing to me. We appreciate you and thank you for that and do our work always thinking about making sure your donation counts.  This year I can finally tell you we are not only making an impact, we are making an impact beyond what I ever thought was possible.

With love,


If you were previously a PARSA Family Member and would like to sign up again, please visit our DONATE page, or donate directly via PayPal.

An Open Letter to The Girls on the Robotic Team From Afghanistan-

In response to this article by the Washington Post about visas being denied for the all female Afghan Robotics team I received this letter:

Dear Afghan Women’s Robotics Team,

You have already won!  You have received worldwide attention for your nation’s plight.  You are some of Afghanistan’s brightest young women, and you will go on to do great things for your nation.  You have already showed the world your abilities.

My own nation, my beloved United States of America, has been an unsteady friend to the Afghan people.  We have tried to help you against your enemies and especially against terrorists, but we have been clumsy and we have hurt many Afghans along the way.  You understand that our leaders do not always represent our people.  Many Americans strongly support Afghan independence.  We pray for peace, stability, and eventual prosperity for Afghanistan.

I visited Afghanistan one summer almost forty years ago.  It was truly the trip of a lifetime.  I remember the Afghan people I met as friendly, generous, and welcoming to a foreigner who did not know their language and customs.  Please forgive our current failure, remain faithful, and come to visit us when times change for the better. I hope my country will be as welcoming to you someday.  That will be the trip of a lifetime for each of you as well.

Best wishes, and may the peace of God be with you,

David Ricks

Sterling, Virginia, USA

PARSA Job Corps and “Talk Time”…

In our youth program’s we include as much “talk time” as we can to give them a chance to voice their feelings or opinions as a part of developing their critical thinking skills. Sometimes we tell stories for them to think about and to talk about. As loving as the Afghan family is, traditionally the youth listen to their elders and do not express themselves. PARSA staff who run “talk time” listen. My son, Reese and I, with Haji had a “talk time” with boys in PARSA Job Corps # 1 yesterday. I always love this time with them as I learn so much and I am often surprised and inspired.
I asked them about “rosa” (fasting during Ramazan)and how the month was going for them with this. Two of them were fasting and a younger one was not.
I told a story about two Afghan’s I traveled with during Ramazan 10 years ago in Badakshan and Bamiyan, and how every day they would argue about “rosa” and the best way to do it as well as which way was the best Muslim way. And it seemed like every day they became angrier and crankier with each other as they fasted through the trip, and I became more annoyed with them. On the last day of our trip, we climbed a mountain and I found myself frightened when I went up and terrified when I started down. I was worried about them. I thought they might push each other down the mountain they seemed so mad at each other. I looked up when I took a rest, and there they were arm in arm helping each other down the mountainside laughing and teasing each other for the first time on the entire trip. I asked the “what happened?” when we got down.  “Ramazan!!!” they said merrily.

I asked the boys what my story meant to them.
Esmat said” Fasting is an honor as a Muslim.  Islam is a gentle religion and it teaches us to be gentle.” Farhad said” there is no arguing about good or bad Muslim.” and Mustafa said “It is hard but it is our job as Muslims to live our life according to the teachings of love by Mohammed.  It is really hard sometimes.”
I asked them “Tell me about how you have felt this last week with the bombing and other problems in the city.”
Farhad said, “We are used to it.”
“Are you not frightened, now?” I asked. Ehsmat said “I am frightened that people from other countries will think that all Afghans are like the people who are bombing us…that Islam is a violent religion, and that you will abandon us.  I am really frightened of that.”
I learn so much from them. Marnie

PARSA Afghan Scouts joins Ministry of Education to Create a National Program

May 2017, PARSA finally had a breakthrough in our 8 year campaign to have a national Scout program, and to reregister Afghanistan with the World Organization of Scouts Movement (WOSM).  Before the war with the Russians, Afghanistan had a 20,000 strong Afghan Scouts Program, that started in the 1940’s and was registered with WOSM as a part of the international movement that includes 40 million Scouts today.

PARSA started our campaign for a national Scouts program when Tamim Hamkar and Gul Ahmad Mustafa joined us in 2009 to help us with our fledgling programs in the orphanages.  They had left the Ministry of Education Scout program because they said “There was no program”.  They were both in an intensive training program with WOSM to become certified to conduct Scout Master trainings.  The journey that ensued over the last 8 years has be difficult with government offices blocking our efforts to establish a community based program.  It is a long story of betrayal, hostility and negotiations that someday we will tell, because our perseverance is a testament to how this country is changing because of the commitment of Afghan Leaders like those on PARSA staff to a stable future for Afghanistan.

Because of our work at PARSA, youth in all provinces now will begin to have Scouts programs.  And the international Scouts community will start to support these programs with funding, training and international opportunities to learn about Scouts in different countries.

We have many, many people and agencies to thank on this long and arduous path, starting with the Asia Pacific Region of WOSM who have sent trainers to Afghanistan for over 10 years now in the hopes that a national program would take hold.  The US Embassy has funded us through their small grants programs for the last 7 years. Many small donors have paid for uniforms and materials for activities.  We are a testament to the power of community effort to bring change in one of the most difficult situations in the world.

And after 8 long years, our real work begins!!!


In Our Spare Time

I have rescued dogs and cats ever since I came into the country in 2004. When I lived at PARSA in the first year I found a partner in my love for animals in Yasin who would shortly become our Country Director. When I moved back to Afghanistan I knew that cruelty to street dogs would be one of the most difficult parts of living here and it was. I adopted my first puppy, Choo Cha in my first year here. Moving to Marastoon brought new challenges as so many strays resided on the large property having puppies. In my first year, I counted 60 puppies born. I also brought back Snoopy from Bamiyan who took to Yasin and became his first dog. Over the years, I worked with fledgling efforts to vaccinate and neuter dogs until Nowzad and Louise Hastie moved in with their incredible support for us. At one point we had over 150 dogs onsite until all of us decided that Nowzad had outgrown our location and PARSA’s sponsorship. In Kabul, the municipality carries out frequent poisoning campaigns to try to reduce the stray dog population which is a true health threat as rabies is endemic and Afghan’s frequently die from dog bites. We have had close calls with rabid dogs, and all of our household is vaccinated for rabies.
I will never forget one night when I was called by our guard because the municipality had a huge truck at the door of our compound piled high with dead and dying dogs with plans to lay out poison meat for feral dogs in the compound. We had lost a couple of our dogs in this very, painful death previously. I stood in the middle of the road in my bathrobe and yelled in Dari/English that they were not allowed in. Calls to the director enforced my refusal. I worked with Nowzad after that to get all of the feral dogs neutered, and vaccinated and the population at Marastoon declined with a small stable group of ferals who guarded the property. That is what happpens with a Trap, Neuter Release program. The feral population stablizes and declines. Poisoning dog packs continuously destablizes the dog population and as the older dogs die new dogs move in. This year, after 12 years of rescuing and caring my own pack of 12 house dogs, MayHew and Dr. Jalili, and Afghan- British Veternarian have convinced the municipality to stop poisoning dogs and to let him and Mayhew train the poisoners to trap so that the dog population in Kabul can be vaccinated for rabies.
This is such a big accomplishment for our community.  During the times when dogs were being poisoned we frequently had Afghan’s call us to try to save litters of puppies, or bring dogs by to save them.  One Afghan colleague shared with me that his mother cried for days when she saw litter of small white puppies die of poison outside her door.  I am so grateful to Mayhew International and Nowzad for being willing to work here and which gives me peace of mind and an ability to respond humanely to animals suffering as I do with humans.

In 2009, PARSA’s First Scout Troop Went from This….

In 2008, PARSA was working in the national orphanages, struggling to teach the government social workers how to work with the children. We were finding it almost impossible to convince them to come out of their offices to talk and play with the children. We were learning that culturally, the more important your position the less you work and there was little motivation for the social workers to make much of an effort in the national orphanages.
Reese, my son,and I took a break from our Kabul work to travel to our Bamiyan offices by road.  High in the Shibar pass we ran into snow and we were passing a family whose car slid into a ditch when Reese who was driving stopped  and said “I am going to pull that van out of the ditch.”  He went around to the back of our van, pulled out equipment and rope and got to work.  Securing the van with the rope prompted much discussion and advice from the men in the stranded vehicle, as well as numerous attempts by them to tie the rope securely.  Reese ended up tying the knot that worked and within 10 minutes had them up and on their way.  When he got back into our van I asked him “Where did you learn all of that?  I didn’t even know if we had a spare tire.” He said “Scouts.  Knots and being prepared.  The lessons never left me.”  I said “That’s it! Scouts for the orphanages.  It has uniforms, activities programs, events and the adults will get engaged.”  And that is how we decided to start the Afghan Scouts program in the orphanages.

The following week, Yasin, Reese and I visited the Ministry of Education, Scouts Department to register our intent to start Scouts troops.  We were eager to get a handbook, and instructions for how to run an Afghan troop.  We decided to start in Alluhoddin Boys orphanage as our male staff could work there.  We met Mr. Sadat, director of the Scouts and Sports department.  He had disappointing news.  “We have nothing here.  No manual, no uniforms, no banners.  We have 20,000 children in the Scouts program but we have no trained Scout Masters and no program for the children.”  We politely asked for permission to start anyway in the orphanages.  Mr. Sadat reviewed his financial needs for the program and we left a bit daunted by our task but determined to get started.  We appealed to our small donor and pulled together very small donations (which is how we start all of our new programs), found handbooks from Scouts programs in other countries, and Reese dredged through his memories of his Scouting experience. We started with 24 boys in Tai Maskan orphanage with Reese and Mohsin running weekly meetings and activities. With a big assist from Eagle Scouts who were serving in the military in Kabul, the program took off, and soon we were able to start troops in Marastoon, and in Alluhoddin Girls orphanage.

Ambassador Eikenberry with the US Embassy became involved and after six months we were able to acknowledge our troops with him as our special guest in the US Embassy.  By the end of the year, HALO had stepped up and granted us $12,000 for our Scout programs.  We also had the fortune to finally track down two men, who had been working in the Ministry Scout department and who had received international training from the World Organization of the Scouts Movement (WOSM) as Scout Masters, Tamim and Mustafa.  Mustafa had been an Afghan Scout Master before the war with the Russians.  It was their dream to launch a national Afghan Scout program and reregister with WOSM.  We hired them in our first interview with them, and today after 8 long years of work we now have 1800 youth participating in 17 provinces and a full curriculum.
Our government social workers never learned to be Scout Masters.  They were just relieved to have adults come and entertain the children, but the children in the orphanages of Kabul and Ghor grew in leadership, started advocating for themselves, worked on community service events and loved being Scouts.  Many youth are still working with us that started in that first year.
To This….

Our Afghan Scout story is truly a story about making change.  We started small, stayed true to our commitment to the children, and grew our network of support.  This month, June 2017, after a long difficult and complicated journey we finally have been asked to join the Ministry of Education to take the lead in developing the national program.  
We salute our staff who started the original program, Reese, Yasin and Mohsin- our donors who took a chance on our vision for the orphan’s the many Eagle Scouts who helped us every way they could while in country, and Tamim and Mustafa for never wavering from your dream to have this program for Afghan youth.
And now onto our next challenge- the national program.

PARSA Family Photo Album-Afghanistan

Pictures and stories from Afghanistan seem to be relentless in showing the horror, poverty, and hopelessness of the country. This constant stream of bad news may inspire the international public to help in the short term but in the longterm it contributes to exhaustion and numbness in people who could be of help.  At PARSA, although we have constant exposure to daily struggle and tragedy, hopelessness is not our constant experience and being with the youth, and adults in our programs is inspiring and nurturing.  When working with our beneficiaries we always walk the line between invoking a dependency on us by overreacting to their tragic stories, and thoughtfully assisting in such a way that we respect and encourage their strength and capacity to overcome their own challenges.  Over the last 9 years of his work at PARSA, Reese Hume captures our experience of working in Afghanistan through his pictures in a way that words cannot express.  A couple of years ago, a donor wrote and told us that his pictures of orphans were not “sad” enough.  He said,”It is impossible for me to see them that way, and how I see them always comes through my photographs.” Here we share some of Reese’s pictures of his experience of PARSA’s work.  We hope to publish a book with his pictures from over the last nine years this summer.

Reese Hume- Nine years in Living and Working in Afghanistan at PARSA

Reese Hume has made his home and his work in Afghanistan for nine years.  Working directly with kids in PARSA’s youth programs, Reese has provided a unique perspective for all of us, in his photography, his contribution to our creative program development, and how we go about our work. He has been pivotal in the evolution of our youth programming.  He and Yasin started our first Scout Troop in the Tai Maskan orphanage before we hired our Afghan Scout staff. Reese is also the lead on our new program, PARSA Job Corps. From the time that he came to PARSA, he has been very comfortable with our life immersed in the Afghan culture.  This summer he is available to meet and talk to our PARSA Family members, about his work and experience in Afghanistan.

His perspective of the Afghan people is captured through his photography which will be featured in a book later this summer.  We have been posting a retrospective of some of his best photos on our instagram site. To schedule a meeting with Reese, when he is in the US, please contact him.


PARSA Job Corps Story – Mirowais

Miroweis joined PARSA Job Corps- small enterprise in January.  He is 14 and the only child of a very poor couple. His mother earns $80 a month and his father works at hard day labor when he can get work.  He joined PARSA Job Corps # 1 and became part of a team of four boys who wanted to learn how to make money at horticulture, growing vegetables and flowers and who are starting a small poultry farm.  He wants to also stay in school so he can make a good income and support his parents.  His dearest wish is to have an eye operation to regain the sight in his left eye.  This month the boys worked hard and earned enough income for their business to breakground on their small plot of land and to buy the materials to build their chicken coop.  They needed to hire some day labourers to help and as a team they decided to hire Miroweis’s father.  They are very pleased to be able to help his family while also moving forward on their small business.  This is the kind of problem solving and learning our PARSA Job Corps youth have the opportunity to learn while also significantly contributing to their family income.

Update: On this trip to Istalif, Miroweis shared with Reese that his dearest dream was to get his eye fixed.  He lost the sight in it when he was six and suffered a blow to the head.  Thanks to a PARSA Family Member who lives in Kabul, this week he went to Noor Eye Clinic and was given a glass eye.  He is still shy about it but so very, very pleased.


Lessons learned working in Afghanistan

At PARSA we have a new program being developed, PARSA Job Corps in response to the dire economic need of many of our community based Afghan Scouts- boys and girls.  When I mean “developed” I mean that I and our staff are learning everyday.  We have 40 youth learning how to start and run very small enterprises.  This month we are learning how to design and produce products for market and how the  “market” works.  What does that mean really?  Our kids decided that candles would be a great product.  None of us being experts on how to make candles, we all set out to learn from the internet and from a book.  We have been making candles now for about four weeks.  We have made candles with string for wicks.  Reese and his team made lumpy taper candles, and then he spent a couple of days trying to figure out how to market them as they are- “handmade” but decided they were just too ugly.  The girls made perfect candles in jars that would not light.  The boys trashed the kitchen with wax and made “wax on a jar” candles where there was more wax on the outside than the inside. Our logistic staff bought beautiful beeswax somewhere in the bazaar but neglected to get a supplier phone number so we are still hunting for quality beeswax. I watched myself and my staff through this process and the impulse to take over from the kids is overwhelming-watching them making mistakes over and over is excruciating.  Then we started noticing something happening with our youth.  As we melted down waxy mistake after mistake, and found solutions to problems they started to relax- especially the girls and they took over the process themselves.  In fact, they started coming up with better ideas than I could. I was so frustrated I moved the candle making to my kitchen, making a mess and insisting on having Yasin witness every change I made as I tested the candles.  Today, the girls came up with an innovation on getting the wicks centered that I never would have thought of.  As a trainer, one of the more difficult experiences I have with adult Afghan’s is how constrained they are around making mistakes and how upsetting it is to them.  Even today in the Afghan educational environment, kids are punished for their mistakes.  What I and my staff learned this month in working with the PARSA Job Corps, was that our job is not to teach them to be produce a perfect product but to give them an environment where they can learn to make mistakes, recover, come up with better solutions working toward their own standards.  This kind of learning environment is where critical thinking happens, entrepreneurship is born, and confidence is built.  So as we debrief from the candle making experience and move onto the next lesson- where to sell our products for best price…my staff and I realised that our job is to help our youth through the process of making mistakes, teaching them how to negotiate the disappointment and to persist toward success.  

Now for our next lesson, we have our “PARSA Job Corps” Bazaar coming up and there are going to be some weird, overpriced items for sale.  Please do not purchase them unless you genuinely want them.  We are counting on some disappointment from this bazaar, so they can learn about making products for a market and what prices the market will bear.  I  promise we will walk them through this and they will learn a positive lesson!

About PARSA’s Psychological First Aid Trainings



Psychological trauma can be defined as exposure incidents of overwhelming stress where stress comes from the death of others, the threat of death to a person, or injury to oneself or others by violence, natural disasters or accidents and this exposure exceeds the victims ability to cope or their ability to overcome emotional reactions to the event. This includes people who lost family members or friends in the event but were not present themselves.

In situations where families are fleeing conflict areas, and have experienced traumatic events often community members find themselves “counseling” each other as people try to cope with overwhelming psychological responses to the situation. Psychological first aid assists members of the family and communities as they try to cope with chaotic and disturbing challenges.

Psychological first aid adapts basic psychological principles to prepare community workers or professionals with no background in mental health services to provide simple but effective support for people suffering from symptoms of trauma, anxiety and depression, or people who are having difficulty coping with challenging circumstances.

In this training we identify cultural strengths that Afghan families, and communities have that if encouraged can provide natural healing for victims of trauma, and we help our trainees learn to identify and promote healthy networks of psychosocial support within the communities.p1050244

Beyond Democracy

dsc00189On September 11, 2001, my best friend called and asked me to turn on the television to view the fall of the twin towers.  She said, “Our lives have changed now, forever.” In 2002, I took my first trip back to Afghanistan since living there in the 1960’s with my family. In 2004, I moved back to Kabul to begin the life-changing odyssey that has spanned the last twelve years.

 While living and working here, I have been an informal ambassador for the US and other Western nations.  My title is “foreigner” in Dari, and I have traveled throughout Afghanistan, visiting remote villages as well as cities, working with the Afghan people.  I am feared, revered and welcomed equally.  I have had stones thrown at me, been chastised, and told to leave the country. I have also been praised, rescued from riots, and protected by the people of Afghanistan.

 At a time in history when my own country has turned to a fear-driven public dialogue and a highly polarized political atmosphere, I am reflecting on what I have learned while being here.

 In the first year that I came to Afghanistan, I witnessed a group of young Afghan men greet a couple of young American women.  One of the men grabbed one of the women and kissed her.

“Why did you just do that?” I asked. “You know it is taboo.”

“We are a democracy now” he replied. ” I get to do whatever I want!”

100_1253 I realized then that my American country’s democratic political system could be misunderstood. This system, as it stands right now, is not necessarily the answer to all social, economic, and political problems worldwide.  One person has one vote and this implies that one’s voice will be heard and have a say in the politics of a country. But on behalf of what?

 I welcome the new and intense dialogue emerging from the US and around the world, as it seems we are re-examining what exactly democracy means and what our fundamental values are when we exercise our right to vote.

 Recently, as I walked to my office, a small boy picked up a stone and threw it at me.  I stopped and asked him “Why did you throw that stone at me?”

“Because you are a foreigner!” 

“But I am your auntie also,” I said, “I am your foreign auntie.”

“Oh…sorry about that!” he said, and then he grabbed my hand and walked me to my office.

dsc07693Our young people, more globally interconnected than ever, are listening to us carefully and growing up in a world of our making.

I say to my government, do not ask me to choose between life for an Afghan child, an American child, a Syrian child, a child of color and my own child. And that is the world that we live in now, in spite of the fact that we are capable and have enough resources worldwide to end hunger and tackle other seemingly insurmountable global problems.  As with the young boy I encountered on the way to work, I believe that we can change our trajectory, but it is now time to set aside the angry rhetoric and put faces to the people who have no voice but will be affected by this new dialogue. I want to be an ambassador for my country on behalf of a democracy in which all people thrive.

Job Corps #3 – The Girls

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Our first Job Corps for girls, #3, is taking off, and we are very excited about it – and so are the girls! Mojabin, Sima, Mushtare, Beshta, Maqbola, Samira, Nazia, Fatimah and Farida are all incredibly enthusiastic and excited to learn. So far they have been focusing on cooking and hospitality skills through our Afghan Kitchen, however last week we asked them to make a list of the skills that they want to learn, and their answers were endless. They included auto-mechanics, photography, beauty school – makeup, hair styling and manicures/pedicures, henna, candle making, computer skills, tailoring, learning English, and they all said they want to learn how to drive cars and ride horses, although since they are quite young we decided to start with bicycles. We are so looking forward to making progress with this first pioneer group of girls, and to use their success as a model to expand the girls Job Corps to other provinces. This is a great edition new branch of our PARSA Education Programs – building youth leadership across the country.

To donate directly to the PARSA Job Corps via PayPal, please click here and mention the job corps in the comments. For more information email Alyssa at

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A Family Vacation in Ghor, Afghanistan- by Marnie

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This is a personal account of a special trip that we made to Ghor province as a work trip and as a break for the extended “Family”.  I periodically write about these times I have had in Afghanistan to convey how much I love the experience of living here.  I hope you enjoy!

Willy’s Summer Vacation Blog1 (Please click for full story)

“I come from a family of very intense and creative people.  In family speak it means Difficult and if we are being kind Special.  My sisters and I have been challenged as we worked to raise the next generation of our family, four boys albeit our oldest, my son Colin is still not quite sure whether he is actually a blood relative because he has been very easy on us as he grew up, or so he tells us.

In 2009, my sister Fran and I had a call about her son Willy who was 17 and trying to find a purpose for his life and he disliked all apparent paths forward especially school. She was trying to figure out how to support him and she was ready for a break.  I suggested that she send him to me in Kabul for the summer and to our surprise Willy jumped on the opportunity. He joined his cousin, my son, Reese who came to visit me in a similar unsettled period of his life two and a half years earlier. We also had the son of a dear family friend, visiting us, Connor, who will evermore be known as Poor Connor, for having to deal with Reese and Willy for a summer. “(read PDF for full story)


Marnie’s August Blog Entry

PARSA August 2016

Last week I had the opportunity to sit in on a World Bank meeting and contribute to the international dialogue that will take place in Brussels about the future of Afghanistan. As I listened to the well-researched prognosis for the next couple of years presented by an economic expert, I was struck by just how wide the gap is between our efforts to address stabilizing a country from a macro level of development and from the “frontline” reality that organizations like PARSA face when dealing at the level of people experiencing the results of a tragically drawn out war. On the macro level, the problems are overwhelming and even hopeless. On the frontline of service, the problems take on a name and a face, and our innate compassion for others overrules any sense of despair or futility.

Two weeks ago I was contacted by a woman in Norway who, as a mental health professional, was working with an Afghan illegal immigrant who was being deported by to Kabul after five years in Norway. He had been born in Iran, and has never stepped foot in Afghanistan, and has no identification from any country that might assist him with integrating here. This very kind Norwegian reached out to us at PARSA to see if we could somehow assist. She went way beyond her professional obligation to reach out and into his life to try to help so that he might have a decent future, and we at PARSA reached back and took him in, stretching beyond our capacity or mandate to respond humanely. Today, Mohammed is out on a trip volunteering with the Scouts, paying us back for our compassion by working as hard as he can to contribute to PARSA, as it is his new home. I am convinced that this network of small efforts to change each life as it comes into our world will at some point overwhelm the cynicism and resignation of the “larger picture”. Thank you PARSA Family Members for being part of our work in changing lives.

Marnie Gustavson
Executive Director PARSA

Mina’s Fundraising for Parwan Scouts

A big thank you to our VoAY producer Mina Sharifi and her wonderful friends who supported her campaign to get the last 10 kids in the Parwan orphanage in shiny new Scout uniforms. Her friends and family met her request within minutes, and so last week a group of 100 kids got to have a little party with a damboora player and other musicians, and each one was presented their dapper new Scout or Cub Scout uniform, complete with hat, scarf, shoes, and belt. All the kids looked splendid and it was a wonderful day! Thank you for sorting out all the Scouts in Parwan, Mina jan!

If you want to contribute to dressing up Scout troops in the future, visit our Donate Page and specify your donation is for Mina’s Scout uniforms. Thank you!

Introducing PARSA UK

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Meet Sally Baldwin, our new manager at PARSA UK.  Sally is working with a team of volunteers to market products from PARSA’s businesswomen as well as developing connections between our Afghan Scouts and Scout Troops in the UK. British supporters can check out the new PARSA UK Facebook page and website.  We have had such support from our British friends over the years, especially Louise Hastie, recently returned to Birmingham, and we look forward to seeing what Sally’s team does this year. Sally adopted a special dog, Brin, from Afghanistan through our partner, Nowzad, and he is famous for surviving being captured by the Taliban. Thank you for joining us Sally!!!

Update on PARSA Job Corps


We are in the second month of our first PARSA Job Corps team’s program. The boys spent their month learning and working in Khalil’s small engine repair shop.  Thank you, Richard Day for donating a 1954 Royal Enfield motorbike for them to “fix”.  Many opportunities for learning on that one!  Please consider donating to their program, so we can expand it.  We just had two boys join this month so we are 10 now.  The boys mothers are widows and they were struggling to find something useful for the boys to do and afraid that their kids would go to the streets.  For those of you in Kabul who have small broken engines around, we are setting up a workshop for them this month.  Actually they are doing the work, and Tamim Hamkar is volunteering to teach them electricity to wire the Farm and other needy places.  Thanks all who are making this possible.  We are so excited to offer this program to our Afghan Scouts!!!




Psychosocial Training in Kunduz and Badakhshan


Mohsin, psychosocial trainer and Safi, Scout Master trainer, taught a workshop for Child Fund professionals who work with children in camps for returnees.  The Healthy Afghan Child program helps Afghan professionals set up Children’s Committees, where children problem solve, participate in educational learning activities and  children have a structured and safe place to talk.  Mohsin has worked extensively in National Orphanages, and Safi training both Scouts and Scout Masters.  The area they traveled to do this is not a safe area, and we are very happy that they were willing to do so.





Prince’s Secret Charity – Hollywood Reporter Article


Read the article published in the Hollywood Reporter about Prince’s support of PARSA and our Afghan Scouts. Reporter Scott Johnson contacted PARSA after reading a Facebook post by Marnie about Prince’s donations to our work for the last 6 years. Marnie had previously been sworn to secrecy about Prince’s support, but after his passing we’re finally able to thank him publicly for helping us make our Afghan Scouts program a success. What a great man, RIP Prince.

Memories: CNN’s Christiane Amanpour Visits PARSA

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CNN featured PARSA in a 2009 CNN documentary called ‘Generation Islam’, where Christiane Amanpour visited Marnie and Yasin at PARSA’s projects in Ghor Province. Marnie said, “It was a special trip because Christiane speaks Farsi and has a deep appreciation for this part of the world.” Watch the documentary at

Marnie’s Story about the trip:

Yasin and I flew to Chagcharran in August 2009, with Christiane Amanpour and her crew to be a part of the series “Generation Islam”.  PARSA was the least known organization of the three organizations featured.  Christiane and her producer were down-to-earth and very well experienced in any kind of remote coverage.  It was a special trip because Christiane speaks Farsi with her Iranian background and has a deep appreciation for this part of the world.  Although she would film in English, she came to know our people in Ghor and was able to speak” and learn about them herself.  I ended up sharing a room with her in our offices, uncomfortable pallets on the floor, and I ended up cooking for the group with very limited local resources.  We had planned a three day filming trip but it snowed and no airplanes, even military would attempt a landing.  “Grace under pressure” was Christinae trying to manage her international schedule and commitments from our bedroom in Chagcharran, with no way of getting out.  But I think Yasin and I won the contest for calmness under pressure, being with her and her team frustrated by events we could not change, in the middle of no where.  We finally ended up chartering a plane with other expats trying to get out, from an airline who overlooked the danger, and flew to Herat where Christiane  hosted flew back  us before we flew back to Kabul.  A brief moment of being a part of the international media world before we slipped comfortably back “under the radar”.

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PARSA and Prince


A little-known story about Prince: He loved Betty Tisdale and her work through HALO, and Betty loved PARSA. One of her visits to me she noticed a broken down building behind our residence and she asked me what we were going to do with it…I told her we hoped to renovate it into a Scout training center. A couple of weeks later we received a check from her in the US and she made me promise to keep the donor a secret at his request…and it was Prince…so even in this far away place, we have been touched by his life and how he lived it.


Unexpected Support for Scouts’ Community Service

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Last week Scouts from our Kabul troops, headed by Amin, were getting ready to leave PARSA to head to our local lake, Qargah, to do a tree planting community service activity. For those who don’t know, our PARSA main offices are located in the ‘Marastoon’ section of the Afghan Red Crescent Society (ARCS), which is the social welfare branch of the Afghan government, so there are often impoverished visitors to Marastoon requesting welfare support. As the Scouts were getting ready to head out, a father who was visiting the offices with his three year old son who has heart disease saw them in their uniforms and asked what they were doing. The Scouts explained their plans to plant trees at the lake, and the father, very impressed, asked if him and his son could go along and help. Despite the father’s old age and his young son’s condition, they were very active in the work and together planted 5 trees. They were very proud to be involved in the community service, and we are very proud when the community appreciated the work of our Scouts so much that they join in to help. Well done, Scouts!DSC07450

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Our 2016 PARSA Staff Picture

Every April the big tree in front of our Kabul main office blooms brilliant purple flowers, so we schedule our yearly staff picture at this time. It’s always a challenge to pick a time when everyone is around, and to actually pull everyone who is at the office away from their desks to come take the picture, but we did great this year! A few members of our Scouts and VoAY team are in Ghor Province filming episodes, but we got almost everyone! Two pictures so that Reese and Alyssa could take turns behind the camera. Thanks for supporting PARSA from our whole Kabul team, and from our provincial staff too!


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Plans for our PARSA Farm


Our well loved PARSA animals provide an immeasurable amount of pleasure to our guests, staff and they also provide organic milk and eggs to local customers. The farm also means six of our local beneficiaries including two women have jobs. We are making plans with the help of our partners Nowzad and Mayhew to turn grow our animal program into an urban farm animal training center, providing a variety of educational programs for animal well-being, veterinary care and humane care. Our horses provide an experience of a lifetime for our young guests as they get a chance to ride. Afghan Scouts will earn a couple of merit badges working in community animal welfare education.  As we develop our program, we need basic support to all of those of our PARSA Family who are animal lovers.  Please consider sponsoring one of our animals so that we can continue our humane care of them. Every time I leave the country, my last words to Yasin are “Don’t let anyone eat Rumi!!!” Help us grow our farm into a place that more Afghans can learn how to care for animals to keep them healthy! More info on our PARSA Farm Project coming soon! If you are interested in getting involved, please contact!


Mind, Body, Spirit – Psychosocial Training for Women


PARSA’s psychosocial trainers are working with War Child Canada staff and partners to establish women’s support groups in “IDP” camps for refugees.  In March, we trained women who are volunteering to be support group leaders in camps around Kabul.  The program is called “Healthy Afghan Women Support Groups” and is adapted to help illiterate communities of women counsel and support each other. These support groups establish a safe place  for us to identify and support victims of violence. We have some unusual components that work very well in the Afghan cultural context as we have modified them so that they can be taught by local women community leaders. We have programs for “Relaxation Postures”, “Breathing for Well Being”, and my favorite “Save it for Tea Talk” where participants learn to listen to each other, solve problems together and save their complaining about life for the tea break. Eight years in development, this simple but effective program lays the foundation in a community for learning about mental health, intervening in family violence or gender based violence and helping people with severe mental health problems. Later in April we will have the opportunity to train Child Fund staff in a version for children and youth. Establishing effective psychosocial programs in Afghanistan is an uphill job, so a big thank you to our psychosocial team for producing this important program.

VoAY Filming at Jebel Seraj

20160404_100932 This past Monday Mina, Marnie, Alyssa and the VoAY team went to film a VoAY segment for an episode on Parwan. We visited the ruins of Jebel Seraj, which was built early in the twentieth century as a summer palace for King Habibullah, and had the honour of having King Habibullah’s granddaughter, Mahbouba Seraj, give our Scouts a tour of the palace. Mahbouba talked about visiting her grandfather at the palace when she was a child, and walked us through the grounds describing what they looked like when they were still in their original glory. She even took us to the ‘elephant quarters’ where the king kept four elephants who were regal symbols of the greatness of the crown. It was such an honour to visit the beautiful grounds and get a glimpse of Afghanistan in its heyday.




Meeting with the First Lady- PARSA Scout Masters

001 002Mashid and Fatema are lead Scout Masters at Marastoon, as we build up both PARSA staff trainers and volunteers.  They represented PARSA Afghan Scout program at an event First Lady Rula Ghani hosted to recognize emerging women leaders.  PARSA has plans this year to triple our women Scout Masters for the Afghan Scout program.  We thank the First Lady for including our women leaders.

New!!! PARSA Job Corps…

12074491_897291967031634_914190553913951418_nIn the fall of 2015, PARSA Afghan Scouts lost a very talented and active scout to the illegal immigration trail. Mohammed had been in the scouts for almost five years, Marastoon troop and had just recently attended the Japanese international Scout Jamboree representing the Afghan Scout Movement.  His mother, under pressure from family members, sent him and his cousin out of the country because she saw no future for him here.  He died in Iran in a car crash.  PARSA directors and staff met to make sense of this tragic loss and decided tDSC07598hat in 2016 we would start an economic program for youth, pre job skills, and focus on a message of hope for the future for the youth in our programs.This week, Reese and Safi started the program with 8 boy scouts, who will meet twice a week and learn all sorts of skills that will build their confidence as workers as they continue school and decide their own employment future with PARSA’s support.  Reese and Safi are starting them on their own garden, where they will be able sell the proceeds, and learn as a team how to reinvest iDSC07565n other projects.  “Uncle Daoud” is the expert who will work with them on this project but after the garden is put in they will move onto carpentry, plumbing, painting, and finding products they can sell.  They will also learn the basics of running a business, managing money and working as a team.  If you would like to donate to this project we would appreciate the support to get it started.DSC07621


Steve Mccurry, photographer visits PARSA


PARSA had a very unexpected but delightful visit from Steve Mccurry, renowned photographer who took the now famous picture of the Afghan Girl.  Steve has a very long history of working in Afghanistan and is respected by Afghans for capturing the feeling of Afghanistan in his photos.  He visited a Scout community service tree planting event with us, to take pictures of Scouts for an upcoming National Geographic article on “Kabul Now”.  I was pleased both to have him take pictures of the Scouts as it is a good news story for Afghanistan.  I was also touched by how honored the older Afghan dignitaries were to meet him.  He sees Afghanistan the way Afghans want to be seen.

A link to his story:

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Shopping for the Holidays in Kabul


Maybe I go to the bazaar about twice a month to go shopping. There isn’t too much use as our staff, especially the drivers know how to do our shopping for us.  The number of shops for Westerners in Kabul could all fit into one Fred Meyer in Seattle, and I do shop every once in a while in those stores, although the selection tends to be stale, have freezer burn or been thawed out and refrozen frequently.  I think the good news is that there are maybe fifty things I can think of to buy, all staples needing preparation and our food is fresh and for the most part organic and not processed.  I mostly shop now to break up my day and get out for a change.  Noorullah is my favorite driver shopping buddy. Afghan men do most of the shopping for the family and are very good at it and Noorullah scours the city for good deals and special treats.  When we go out he sings his shopping song..usually about a vegetable…today he sang about “Kachaloos”..(potatoes) …making it up as he goes along …”Potatoes,…how I love potatoes…fresh potatoes from Bamiyan, sweet little potatoes…my baby is a potato boy….” except I really wanted a box of oranges for fresh juice…so he made up a new song “ oranges….Afghan oranges….not Pakistani oranges..because we don’t want to give them our money anymore….special sweet oranges for Juldash to make fresh juice for the Marnie, jan…”

One hour…and one box of oranges, a very old frozen turkey, a refrozen lasagne that feeds 12 and probably “fell off the truck” for some military base..and I am ready for Christmas Eve dinner this year.  Except I have to set up my “Christmas Twig”- a piece of decorated curly willow tree which is now part of our tradition…lacking a decent Christmas tree which I could find for $200 if I were so inclined.  We are checking in with friends to see who is left in town for holidays, and will visit the various homes that are having a holiday party…ours will just be close friends. Dawn will make pies, Lorraine -French Onion Soup- and Louise something British with turkey – all which will be delicious.  I am so grateful that we just get to make it up as we go along with the focus on being with people we care about without any pressure for how the holiday should be and usually we are delighted with our time together even though we miss our family at home. Happy Holidays All!

Marnie’s Experience with Women’s Peer-Counseling Groups


November 2015. I sit with my psychosocial trainer Fatema and eight Afghan women leaders from Zardozi Women’s Business Centers to launch our women’s peer counseling group that we call “Healthy Afghan Woman’s Support Group”.  In my experience, announcing a program as a psychosocial one can be the “kiss of death” for women’s support groups in Afghanistan – unless there is a heavy stipend offered for attending. Even though I had oriented them to our work a couple weeks back and assured all attending that this was not a program for crazy people, my attendees were very nervous about working with me.

Afghan women are some of the most socially oppressed women in the world, living in a culture that condones violence against them, but the experience of sitting and talking with Afghan women never fails to amuse, endear and inspire me. After twelve years of close work with Afghan women from the mountains to the fields to the Afghan parliament, I must say that the perception that they are “put upon” victims is not how I experience Afghan women as a whole and this group was no exception. They welcomed me graciously, strongly stated their opinions and fears about our training, and settled in to learn.  Only two of the women were literate, although all of them were responsible as community leaders for a group of women artisans working in the business centers.

1935051_948963025197519_8784274235459195086_n“The work of a women’s group facilitator is a very special kind of work,” I announce. “When women gather to talk, the conversation tends to be what I call “tea time talk” where we share stories about how hard life is in Afghanistan, how we have been hurt by men, about all that is wrong with our lives. There is a certain comfort in sharing these things, but women can leave these conversations feeling very sad about their lives and feeling helpless. In our work with you this week, you have an opportunity to learn how to lead women’s conversations where the women talk about how to solve their own problems and when they leave your group they feel like they have a path forward and support to do so.”

Zarghuna comments, “We like hearing sad stories from others.  It makes us not feel so alone!”

“Well, Zarghuna, you can always have that kind of a conversation but in this program it is saved for “tea time”, I say. “Here we want to assist the women in your centers to solve their problems, seek support, and make changes in their lives so they are healthier.  I think everyone here wants that for themselves and other Afghan women.  What kinds of challenges do you and your sisters face everyday?”

Aisha: “I am a widow and my teenage son won’t allow my daughter to go to school. He won’t listen to me.”

Hawa: “My husband did not want me to come to this training.  He says that women are not important, and certainly not as important as men.  I had to fight with him to come here. I always am fighting with my husband.”

Khadija: “There is a woman in my group who works very hard and produces good products but her family will not let her keep the money or spend the money on her children.  So she is always hungry and always trying to beg for food for her children.  It isn’t fair.”

Homa: “There is a woman in my center whose daughter was raped by a neighbor but the police sided with him.”

IMG_0671“As a facilitator, you will have the tools of listening, problem solving, advocacy, and mobilizing your beneficiaries,” I continue, “And again, a special kind of listening, where instead of finding stories in your lives to match the stories being told so you commiserate, you will act as a mirror and reflect back what you hear so your speaker feels heard.”

With these simple but difficult-to-practice concepts, my mostly illiterate group of women set out to learn how to facilitate by working with problems they were struggling with in their own lives or problems that other women in their communities were having.  By our second day, they were practicing facilitating a group and during the problem-solving period coming up with solutions I never could have thought of because I do not live their lives. Competent, smart, and savvy about their communities and their constituents, I felt like I was witnessing a high-powered convention of Afghan women elders who were capably organizing themselves to address heart-breaking problems with vigor and determination.

As we start to get them ready to start their own support groups I ask them, “Now since most of you are illiterate, how do I give you materials so you remember the steps of facilitating a support group?”

Zarghuna answers, “Phfft! We have to do this all of the time!  We have memorized the steps but give us materials anyway and if we forget we will have our children read them to us.”

Finally, I ask them what they feel was is valuable from our training.  “Marnie,” Hawa says, “ It is such a relief to direct complaining to tea time, and to feel powerful enough to say Shut Up! It is time for solutions.”

I have lived and worked in Afghanistan for many years but it is my direct – up close and personal work with ordinary Afghans that continues to give me hope for Afghanistan.  My experience of Afghan women, such as the ones in this training, astonishes and never fails to delight me. Against the backdrop of the hand wringing and anxiety of international leaders about the future as reported by the media, I am constantly heartened by the pride and resilience of Afghan women.  I long for a more compassionate society, for their rights to be upheld by the government and for their lives to be safer but working with them I know that they are strong. It is a privilege to witness them as they grow and move forward, rebuilding their families and communities.

Names of the participants have been changed

Afghan Scouts at the World Jamboree

Arriving in Fukuka

We are very proud to announce that a delegation of Afghan Scouts, led by Amin Nayebi, has left for the 23rd World Scout Jamboree. This official event of the World Organization of the Scout Movement is being held in Kirara-hama, Yamaguchi City, Japan from July 28, to August 8, 2015.

We our very proud of our Afghan Scouts for attending this important Scouting event, and we are confident that they will do a wonderful job representing Scouting in Afghanistan.

Taking ready for Sleep\ Dubai Airport







PARSA Eid Staff Party


Our PARSA staff are usually operating in their own departments, Scouts focusing on Scout activities, women’s economics completely separate from psychosocial, finance and HR in a world apart from VoAY or our support staff. We all say hi on lunch and during tea breaks, but it is only during our staff parties that we all get to sit down and hang out together. To brighten up the tedious first day back to work after the Eid long weekend, we arranged our summer staff party to cheer up the mood. Delicious food, recognizing the achievements of all our departments, and recognizing those staff who have been stepping up to the plate these last few months – especially those from our Scout leadership team who spent the hot weeks of Ramazan traveling across the northern provinces getting our Scout programs running steadily. And who knew we have over 50 staff who work at our Marastoon offices!

Congratulations to all our staff, and Eid Mubarak!








Eid at Shamsa Village


On the third day of Eid we headed out to Shamsa Village Orphanage with a team of volunteers for a few hours of fun with the beautiful kids. We celebrated, played games, ate ice cream, and had a generally great Eid celebration. It was a wonderful day for everyone involved – those kids touch all of our hearts, and there is nothing better than seeing them smile.



















BORDA Dewats System at Shamsa Complete

This past Tuesday we celebrated the inauguration of the new sanitation system that has been installed at Shamsa Village Orphanage. Everyone at PARSA would like to extend a huge thank you to the Bremen Overseas Research and Development Association (BORDA) for taking on the project to install the new DEWATS sanitation system for the compound. Previously the septic tanks in use were not functioning correctly which created a very unsanitary, not to mention unpleasant, conditions for the children. A huge thank you also to the German Embassy who funded the project. Step by step Shamsa Village is becoming a leading model in Afghanistan for how great an orphanage can be.



DAILY QUIRKS: A Luxurious Life of Sacrifice

We’re a strange bunch. Those of us who grew up abroad but have made the decision to live in Afghanistan long term. And we’re strange for a variety of personal and collective reasons that could fill up pages (has anyone written that book yet? Or no wait, everyone has written that book). Sometimes these “quirks” make us look absolutely insane to friends and family who are not here and we’re often reminded of that on trips home. We sit over lunch on our brief visits back and it becomes very difficult to converse about regular topics because your contribution, as hard as you try, tends to have a splash of absurdity in it.

“So the other day my driver was saying…”

“Wait, what? You have your own driver?”

And suddenly the point of the story, whatever it was, is gone.

“Yes, we also have a cleaning lady…….a chawkidar is a man that opens the door and handles stuff around the house. Sometimes there’s more than one of them. Oh um… the office cook makes lunch…”

Insert sheepish look. Your eyes dart around the room for anyone who might be able to back you up here but they’re all back in Kabul or maybe in the same situation as you are.

You realize you’ve confused everyone because they probably assumed you wear a burka and quietly sneak cans of food to people in tents. There is a fine line between how luxurious our lives could be considered and on the other hand how we could be acknowledged as “roughing it” by living here. It’s all a matter of comparison, isn’t it?

Before I share how luxurious or sacrificial my daily life is, let’s remember there is a very broad spectrum. I will be the first to say that there are people who I consider “roughing it” that haven’t seen a soda or heard English in months. Then of course there are those in air-conditioned apartments that put Manhattan living to shame and the resident of this place has only “heard” of that scary world outside their walls. Let’s leave all that alone for now and I’ll just give you a list of examples from my own perspective.

Heating. I hate winter. I’ve recently pieced together that it’s because of my Eastern Afghanistan heritage. I was meant to be sipping cold yogurt drinks under palm trees, not participating in Toronto or Kabul winters. On one hand, I have a bukharee heating system in whichever room I’m in, pretty much for the whole winter (see earlier article “bukharee”). This is a life of luxury in a country where people freeze literally to death. Compared to my upbringing however, where central heating was not optional, here I feel frozen solid for at least 5 months of every year. And that is difficult to consider luxurious sometimes.

Food. We have a wealth of food and frankly most of it is better than you have in your grocery stores. I speak to anyone, anywhere outside of Afghanistan when I say that. I can also afford to eat enough food, treat myself to exquisite Afghan cuisine in restaurants and even to foreign delicacies like Cambodian, Japanese, Italian and Indian. I can stop at the vegetable and fruit stand and walk away with a car full of melons, tomatoes, cucumbers, pomegranates… you name it. And this is most certainly a luxury. I can afford it, unlike much of Afghanistan. But… on certain days I remember things like…. extra lean ground beef! Blueberries! Fruits and vegetables around ALL YEAR ROUND. We never have everything all at once and I’m not sure if I can even list certain products I miss because I have forgotten I miss them. Most raised-abroad Kabul residents can relate to this: I have anxiety when I first get back to the grocery stores I grew up with. Why are there so many different kinds of everything? HELP! I’d better buy all the blueberries and avocados before anyone else finds out they’re available! And if you saw my panicked expression when trying to pick out a cereal, you’d probably feel sorry for me instead of thinking I have a luxurious food life in Afghanistan.

Home! I love my home in Kabul. The garden is the kind that makes you want to write (or start to understand) poetry. Roses and fruit trees as far as the eye can see and even a volleyball net. The house itself is an adorable 60s style bungalow with a nice kitchen and a gorgeous zebra mural from who knows when. So yes, luxurious to no end, especially compared to the poverty around us. But just for good measure I’ll throw in that we often have no electricity (really often lately), we can’t catch a proper wifi signal and our roof is caving in. My room is so moldy from the damp ceiling that the white wooden closet has turned green. And we live with “there’s no water because the pipes are frozen” sometimes but it doesn’t seem to make the evening news the way it would in my Toronto community.

One more for good measure. Mostly for my girls. Grooming is in no way luxurious here, I can not pretend. But I can maybe surprise you. Eyebrows can be threaded cheaply, there are some places where you can get a good hair cut and OK there’s some makeup available in the more expensive shops. Should you want to be dolled up, it may not be the style you’re used to but there are plenty of fake lashes and beehives at your whim. There are some clothes here and there that I’m OK with. There are some brand name shampoos available. But unlike all the categories I’ve listed so far, this is the one where I don’t think lucky or luxurious is really a description that would pass. Maybe grooming is possible but glamour is certainly a difficult (impossible for me) task.

So except for that last one, which arguably shouldn’t matter at all (it does), I’m ok with all of the conditions. Depending on the mood of the day I, probably like most others who grew up elsewhere, shift from feeling lucky and feeling exhausted. But I try to remember daily at least one thing that I wouldn’t have if I weren’t here. And that list is long. We have calm yet adventurous, stressful yet rewarding, infuriating yet heartwarming lives here. And at the end of the day, I have the life I want and have chosen. I believe that choice in itself should always be defined as a luxury.

Shamsa Turkish Children’s Day!

The Shamsa kids visited PARSA on April 24 for their monthly cultural activity day, this time celebrating Turkish Children’s Day! It was another great day, and this time our PARSA Finance team even came out to run their own activity – needless to say were happy to escape from the finance office and see first hand what all their hard work goes to – plus they looked like they had just as much fun as the kids. Enjoy the pictures!

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“Wild Camping” in Bamiyan


Yasin, Reese, his friend Maiwand and I were in Bamiyan for a few days to check on our projects and get a much-needed escape from Kabul’s hectic city life. Even for a trip of a few days Bamiyan makes for a perfectly revitalizing vacation – clean air, open space, fresh weather, great security, friendly people – what more could one ask for.

20150414_143717We arrived and spent Monday and Tuesday morning with Zahra and Taher, who run our Bamiyan PARSA office, and visited some of our project sites including our schools in the cave communities to make sure they were up and running for the school season. Then Tuesday afternoon we decided to drive out to Afghanistan’s most famous lake, Band-e-Amir, to do a hike into the national park and an overnight camping trip. Bamiyan is one of the few places in Afghanistan where it is safe enough for foreigners/city folk to travel freely in the countryside, and we all wanted to take full advantage of the opportunity.

20150414_143247We drove along the muddy dirt road beside the picturesque lake until we found a stream crossing our path that we decided would be good to hike along. We parked the car so it was hidden from the road, and walked in the beautiful, sunny weather, surrounded on one side by high cliffs and on the other by snowy mountains, up a valley until we found a good basecamp in the remains of a century-old house that looked like it was now used by shepherds and their herds.

Reese set up the main tent there for himself, Taher and Maiwand, and Yasin and I trekked on to set up our own tents further up the valley. We ended up climbing up an avalanche shoot almost to the top of the cliffs, and were only deterred when a little bird that had been sitting on a stone started a mini-avalanche that sent huge rocks shooting down some meters away from us. However the most interesting part of that climb, besides the incredible view, was that we found fossilized seashells at the tops of the cliffs. The whole region was once under water.

20150415_063753When we got back down Reese started a fire and we cooked ourselves a potato stew for dinner, and drank coffee out of our big bowls. Until then everything was great, we had forgotten we were in the heart of a country “at-war” and had enjoyed the peaceful nature, not another person in sight. Then night came.

Reese and I were at least nominally prepared. My gear is three-seasons, and it held up well against the freezing rain, and even did okay against the slushy snow that followed, but the others weren’t so lucky. Their tents were only summer tents, and Yasin, who faired the worst, said he spent his entire night crouched in the center of his tent while it literally rained (then snowed) around him (inside his tent!). By morning his blanket looked like it had spend the night soaking in the stream.

DSC00177Everyone woke up at first light (except me who was still for the most part dry and warm, and not in any hurry to get out of my warm sleeping bag and into the snow), and despite the bad weather and their freezing nights, still in happy moods. We packed up camp and hiked back to the car, happy to be warm, and enjoying the views of the snowy mountains and low clouds that made the scenery look like a gateway to heaven. Reese did an epic job off-roading us back to the main road, despite the deep mud and crevices in the road.

All-in-all it was a great excursion as part of a great trip. It serves as a reminder that even though the overall security situation in Afghanistan is quite bad, it is still a beautiful country with pristine landscape where one can find places that are just as peaceful as any other country has to offer. What a great trip!







PARSA Farm: Our Baby Chicks


Our baby chicks at PARSA are the cutest! Our entire staff love them, and Sameer from Voice of Afghan Youth even made them their own music video to the Surfin Bird song – our birds are the word! Can’t wait until they grow up and start giving us delicious, fresh organic eggs every morning!



April Fools Day at PARSA

Today, when I peeked my head into the Voice of Afghan Youth Office to say good morning, the staff had big grins on their faces and were busy writing purchase orders.  Our finance team were the intended victims of their prank, as they are perceived as deserving of a bit of hassle given how difficult it seems to get any money out of them. I didn’t quite get why Mina and Alyssa were so entertained until Abdullah showed up in my office an hour later with a very grim face and a handful of purchase orders. “I don’t know what to do with these,” he said, “Mina and Alyssa submitted them, they total $14,094 and Yasin signed them!” I looked them over and noted that they had listed items such as “100 tubes of red lipstick”….”Two small pot bellied pigs”….”Pink leashes for small pigs..” So in the “approved” section I wrote ‘April Fools!’  Abdullah broke out in a big grin and when I went into finance 10 minutes later the finance team were still chuckling. A couple hours later they called Alyssa and asked her and Mina to come and pick up her money. Being pretty tricky minded, they guessed that something was up, especially as the finance team still had big grins on their faces. They were handed an envelope and asked to count their money which was of course, a stack of perfectly cut pieces of paper…Finance’s April Fools! Mina counted it as a great bonding experience between the two departments…Then at the end of the day I nearly lost it when our VoAY assistant producer, Sameer, announced on Facebook that he was on the way to the airport to go to Canada permanently. I am relieved that April Fools Day is over, and that our self-appointed entertainment committee is now looking forward to planning the celebration of  “Turkey’s (the country) Children’s Day” in two weeks. Stay tuned.  It is always a surprise.

DAILY QUIRKS: Driving in Kabul

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Of all of my accomplishments and failures in Afghanistan over the last ten years, nothing I have done has caused more daily excitement or consternation than my driving. 2015 has marked a change in being here and I am taking back over parts of my life that I had given up because of the security threats. One of those is driving myself to the bazaar or store when I need to shop, and in fact doing my shopping for myself instead of sending Nasir off with my shopping list. We have been given a big old battered, gas-guzzling SUV for our incidental trips, and I first ventured out for Women’s Day, when we needed an extra driver to get all of the women at PARSA to the women-only fashion show event that we were attending in celebration. The braver of our female staff were very excited at the novelty of driving with their “rais” (boss) and a woman at that.

As much in solidarity they were with me, the frequent gasps and their tight grip on the passenger handles as I negotiated Kabul traffic to the center of town indicated that they were not sure a woman driver could get them there safely. After all there are probably about five of us in all of Kabul and one other is Alyssa. On another occasion, our grounds-staff lined up on the road as I went off to the petrol staff and applauded me as I went by with big grins on their faces. The gate keepers see me coming and open both gates extra wide for me, as after all I am a woman driver and could miss the opening. Last night, I drove across the street to get petrol for our generator from the “Pump Station” run by a family of Pushtuns, and when the attendant saw me he yelled to his relatives in Dari/Pushtu, “Hey! Oh No! There is a woman driving here and she speaks English! Help me speak to her because she speaks English!!!! What do I do? What does she want?! Help!!!” When he calmed down, and I conveyed my requests, we filled the car and my petrol can together and then negotiated the money and wrote the bill. I asked him, “Now, really, was that so bad??? I have been driving for over 40 years, and really it is time you get used to the idea of women drivers. You did a great job!” “Yes, Auntie,” he beamed,” More women driver’s…..?!”

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My Family in Afghanistan


IMG_3064 copyAnyone who has lived abroad knows that although it can get lonely at times, new friendships are made, relationships established, and soon we start to develop a “family” in our chosen home. Personally, for a long time I have known that I have a wonderful community here with colleagues and friends who are amazing people and I am sure will stay in my life permanently, regardless of where our individual paths take us. Since I started to work for PARSA, I have always felt that our entire staff are a big part of my family in Afghanistan. However it wasn’t until my birthday yesterday that I realized how special they are all to me, and how much they appreciate me in return.

After a meeting in town I had made plans for a birthday lunch at a nearby restaurant. While I was eating a few colleagues called to wish me happy birthday and ask where I was. This seemed a bit strange at first because no one generally notices if I miss lunch, but it turned out they had planned a special surprise birthday meal – and were waiting for me to celebrate. Completely unexpected! I was late getting back, but when I did there was not only a special lunch, but also a big beautiful cake that Mina had brought, flowers, and even a few beautifully-wrapped presents.

Everyone – the Scouts, our finance and tailoring teams, even the operations and farm staff – came to my office for cake and a mini celebration. It was such a wonderful, unexpected day, and it made me realize that the people in that room are my true family in Afghanistan. It is such a blessing to be a part of an organization where the staff care so much about each other and really look out for one another’s well being and happiness. It was the best birthday present in the world to be reminded so strongly that I have such a beautiful, caring family at PARSA. Thank you all!IMG_3044

Nowruz with Shamsa

Our beautiful kids from Shamsa Village Orphanage came to visit us at PARSA for Nowruz celebrations, and it was so much fun! They arrived looking adorable and all dressed up in their Afghan best. We had plenty of fun activities, from flower planting (Nowruz is a time to celebrate farmers), to jelabi games (an Afghan sweet), to tokhum-jangi (egg-fighting), to horse riding and face painting. We even had a surprise concert and cake for everyone! What a wonderful day, the pictures speak for themselves. Happy Persian New Year to all our PARSA supporters around the world!


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Scout Distributions to Panjshir Avalanche Victims


Since the devastating avalanches in Panjshir, our Afghan Scouts have been collecting donations for the victims and their families, and waiting for the roads to clear up enough to be able to deliver the donations directly to the affected villages. Last week a team of Afghanistan Scout Volunteers Society traveled deep into Panjshir Valley with a truckload of warm clothes, blankets, cooking supplies and medicine and handed them out to the families. Many victims said that although they had heard that there had been donations to help them via the governor’s office in the provincial capital, this was the first time since the disaster that a group had traveled directly to them with help.

Seeing the Scouts in action, spreading their message of peace and unity, is priceless – watch the video below or by clicking here:



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PARSA Women Celebrating Women’s Day

March 8th was International Women’s Day, and our PARSA female staff decided to leave the men behind for a day of our own. We all got dressed up and headed downtown for a women-only fashion show and concert with the famous Afghan singer Shahla Zaland. It was a great event and we absolutely loved spending women-only time with each other and all the other incredible Afghan women who were there – plus we had PARSA clothes in the fashion show! Happy Women’s Day to all our PARSA supporters!

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Traveling Rumi

Meet our first traveling “goodee” doll, Rumi. Rumi is a pint-sized replica of one of the members of our PARSA farm, Rumi the elegant fat-tailed Afghan sheep. Reese rescued Rumi from becoming a dinner kebab during Eid last year, and brought him to PARSA where he lives the sheep-dream: plenty of food, plenty of friends, and plenty of roaming space.

We are making little stuffed replicas of our PARSA Farm animals to help promote both our PARSA Farm and our tailoring program, both part of our PARSA Women’s Economic programs. Our women will be making unique stuffed replicas of each of our farm animals, and decorating them with individualized Afghan style. Then as our staff members travel around Afghanistan and abroad we will be taking our little stuffed pets with us and sharing our journey’s from their point of view!

Reese’s little Rumi is the first to go – from Kabul where he said goodbye to Reese’s mastiff Sherock, all the way to Washington State, where he is currently on all sorts of adventures in the warm spring Seattle weather. We plan to auction off little Rumi once he is back in Kabul to raise money for the women who made him, so stayed tuned for more of his adventures!



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Chinese New Years with Shamsa

Today we hosted our much-anticipated Chinese New Years event welcoming in the Year of the Goat with the kids from Shamsa Village Orphanage. To put it mildly, it was amazing! We still don’t know who had more fun, the kids themselves or the volunteers and PARSA staff who were helping to run things.

IMG_5911Chinese New Years is a very exciting and fun holiday, and we thought it would be a great first glimpse into Chinese culture for the kids (and for some of us!). We had five themed activities: Chinese lantern crafts, pin the tail on the goat, donuts on a string (because the kids love it), a dragon/goat coloring and fan making activity, and a learn-to-use chopsticks table. They were all great and the kids could not have been more happy with their beautiful lanterns and faces covered in donut sugar.

IMG_6383We played games such as “Toufan Says” as wrestling practice, then after the lunch the adults did our best attempt at entertaining the kids with a Chinese parade dragon dance, after which the kids had a blast running around with the giant home made dragon head. We finished the day by handing out “lai see” traditional envelopes and teaching the kids to say “Kung Hei Fat Choy!!”

IMG_5969This amazing event was made possible by the great response from our local donor community to our ask last week, and we were happy to see many members of our Kabul community, both national and international, out to help run activities, play with the kids, and eat a great PARSA brunch.

A huge thanks to everyone who participated. Enjoy the picture gallery below!!



DAILY QUIRK: Goats on the Roof

Goats are mischievous creatures. Everyone knows this. But it isn’t until you get your first pair of adorable baby goats and try to keep them as family pets that you realize just how mischievous they can be. Take our recent series of “goats on the roof” experiences. The first time it happened was on an evening that I was working a little late at the office, and got one of the now-regular worried text messages from Marnie telling me that the goats were cold and hungry in their grazing pen and calling for their “goat-mother”. So I packed up and walked up to the house about 5 minutes later, only to find Marnie looking half frantic, half perplexed. I followed her worried gaze up to the top of the high roof of our Scouting building, where I saw little Fred and Wilma happily grazing away from the leaves off of the top of a tall tree.

Marnie said that she had let them out of their pen and only taken her eyes off them for two minutes, when they had dashed away and figured out how to scramble to the top of an old staircase, jump onto the building’s roof and then scamper over to the delicious tree leaves. The whole thing seemed fairly well planned out from the goats’ side.

We were both rather panicked as they were standing on the very edge of the building and it is a long way down. So I dropped my bags and ran up the stairs and onto the roof, and with a lot less grace than the goats made it over to them and picked Fred up to carry him down (Wilma always follows Fred wherever he goes). Getting them off the roof was another rather challenging maneuver, but we all managed to get back on solid ground without any injuries.

Marnie and I were very relieved to have rescued our “kids” from the rooftop, and put them away for the night. However, now that they have a taste for those delicious rooftop tree leaves, it is Fred and Wilma’s daily goal to get back on the roof the second they are out of our sight, and this has become a “daily quirk” for Norm, Wasse and I, who are the ones who have to keep climbing up on the roof to carry our goats back down.

We love our kids though, so it is worth it!

Happy Chinese New Years from everyone at PARSA – we are all very happy to be ringing in the Year of the Goat!

How we See Ourselves in Afghanistan

Click on the link below to read our very own VoAY Producer Mina Sharif’s article that was published in the Huffington Post. It shares her positive and uplifting view on her outlook living and working with PARSA and the Scouts in Kabul:

How we See Ourselves in Afghanistan

Mina’s positive outlook on Afghanistan reflects that of all of us at PARSA and we are proud of her for sharing it with the world!

DAILY QUIRKS: Snowball Fights, Afghan Style

IMG_5295This past weekend Reese, Yasin and I made a snowboarding attempt on Salang Pass, but unfortunately when we got to the top after our 3 hour drive we found that visibility was terrible and although there was a lot more snow there than in Kabul, it was not enough for boarding. So we made the best of it, and to the amusement of the roadside shopkeepers and the steady stream of cars driving by, Reese and I had a full-out snowball fight on the side of the road near the top of the pass. The pictures clearly show that I won.



Okay, maybe I didn’t win. Retreat!



Yasin and Reese hanging out.

Unfortunately the window was OPEN when that mud splatter happened.









Reese doesn’t go anywhere without his coffee cup.


Embassy of Indonesia Visits the Scouts


Mr. Budi Prastowo, Minister Counselor of the Embassy of the Republic of Indonesia, met today with the executive leaders of the Afghan Scouts at our PARSA main offices in Marastoon, Kabul. In this meeting we discussed the Afghan Scouts both in Afghanistan, Indonesia and globally, and we planned ways for the Indonesian Scouts and the Afghan Scouts to work together in the future. A great day for global Scouting!

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DAILY QUIRKS: Goats in the Bathroom

This holiday season found those of us who are internationals in Kabul with a heightened security threat and not much to do in the way of entertaining ourselves. We had to create our own holiday spirit.

2Alyssa, who had just moved into our residence at the time, decided that above everything else her top priority was that she must get goats, and that they would be a cheerful gift to all of us to lift our spirits for the holidays. She told us that having her own goats was her life’s dream and that here we were with a “goat-less” PARSA Farm, so we needed to find some.

Mina, who likes the idea of the farm but hadn’t quite extended her comfort level far enough to actually touch any of the animals, made the goats her personal character-building challenge, so she was on board. (Check out Mina’s series of selfies of her almost touching a cow).  Reese just found the whole thing entertaining and decided he was on board, too.

I protested half-heartedly by dragging out my favorite Dari quote: “If you don’t have enough troubles, buy a goat”. – “We DO have enough troubles!” I insisted, but the protest fell on deaf ears.

A trip to the Shomali plain animal bazaar was organized a few days before Xmas and off our team went on their adventure to purchase goats. Four hours later, Alyssa came home elated with two small kids in her arms, and after much deliberation we all agreed on the names “Wilma and Fred”.


Reese and Alyssa dressed them in animal finery, complete with Bamiyan jewelry and Kuchi decorations and put them in the backyard for the afternoon, with Alyssa completely enchanted by the fact that they had adopted her as their “goat mother”, following her around wherever she went and bleating loudly if she left their sight for longer than 30 seconds.

The reality that we had just added two GOATS to our household finally hit me as I looked out my bedroom window and realized that we were already overrun with 12 dogs and 3 cats, and I began asking her what her plans for housing them were. Animal politics are already very complicated at our house as not all animals get along and require certain animals such as our large mastif, Sherak, to have special runs and places to live.

“Don’t worry!” Alyssa said happily, “they will stay in my room with me!”  She made a comfortable place in her bathroom for them for the night and as far as she was concerned all problems were solved.  The next morning a dreadful stench wafted from her room when she came out for breakfast and she reported that she never would have guessed that two adorable baby animals could generate so much poop and cause so much destruction in a room.

On the third day of her goat program – after spending hours on two successive mornings shoveling poop out of her bathroom – she decided to move them to one of the cow enclosures on the farm to join the baby cows and Rumi, our sheep.  Having tasted the “good life”, Fred and Wilma were not at all interested in the prospect of hanging out with farm animals, and constantly escaped the daily walks with their comrades to roam areas of their own choosing – often causing our staff great headaches in trying to get them back.

Then Wilma caught a goat cold and they both acquired warm sweatshirts with hoodies. The farm staff finally got fed up with having to spend their days chasing goats dressed up in children’s clothing and jewelry, and so ousted them from the farm in frustration. So back up to the house they came! Wasse and Nasir, secretly amused by the whole venture, finally took pity on Alyssa and built her a small “goat bedroom” outside her own room so that she would no longer have to use her room as a barn. She was relieved!

Fred and Wilma are now quite settled in. They keep Alyssa very busy and have become a focal point for my general anxiety. As I walk home from work each day they see me and run too the fence, bleating loudly, and I begin sending worried texts to Alyssa:

“Wilma is yelling.  Should I put her in your room?”
“Alyssa, the goats are cold and Fred lost his coat.”
“Alyssa, where are the goats!?  Are they with you?”
“Are goats supposed to eat roses?”
I am so grateful for our  gifts. They certainly are an entertaining distraction, as well as a testament to creative holiday gifts that just keep giving.

Staff Acknowledgement Lunch

Our PARSA staff are a big family. They are the ones who work hard to keep the PARSA vision alive, often going far beyond their official duties to do so. Most of the 45 permanent employees at our Kabul main offices – from operations staff to management – have been with PARSA for years and are highly dedicated to their work with us.

Although we eat lunch together daily, usually at least half the team is missing because they are off visiting our projects or are too busy handling their respective responsibilities to make it to the staff room. We love our Staff Acknowledgement days because they bring us all together and give us a chance to catch up with each others’ departments.

Today we acknowledged six people for Employees of the Month (we can never just pick one!): from Scouts – Amin; from Women’s Economics – Shoghora; from Operations – Aziz Agha (who cooked us our delicious qabuli meal); and the entire Finance Department – Toofan, Abdullah, and Mustafa.

Everyone had a great day and shared a few laughs – just the recharge we needed!

DAILY QUIRKS: Kabul’s Lazy Dinner (MREs!)

Generally people like myself, who are always busy with work and life but also exhibit certain laziness tendencies at times, have found life hacks that fit well with our busy-but-lazy lifestyle.

There are all sorts of examples of Kabul life hacks, but my favorite lazy-but-highly-effective way of freeing up time is with MREs. “Meal, Ready-to-Eat” are the American solution to feeding troops in the field. They are “home-cooked” in the U.S. and stamped with the approval of the Department of Defense. They all have the catchy, copyrighted slogan “Warfighter Recommended, Warfighter Tested, Warfighter Approved”, and the main course generally sports instructions detailing all the reasons for why it is dangerous to not consume sufficient calories while in the field. (These things aren’t exactly five-star dining and I guess it can be hard to convince certain gourmet-loving soldiers to actually eat the vacuum-sealed meals, but I don’t think they’re that bad.)

All you need to set up a night of working without ever having to leave your desk is an MRE package and some water. First, you open the package and sort through all the surprises – you only known what the main course will be by what is written on the outside of the package; everything else is kept secret until mealtime (I suppose they do this so that soldiers in the field have at least one daily surprise to look forward to that breaks the monotony of missions).

Today I picked “MENU 8: Meatballs in Marinara Sauce”. My package contained:

  • the main meatball course
  • a package of “wheat snack bread”
  • cheddar cheese pretzels
  • smoked almonds
  • crackers
  • cheese spread
  • tropical punch flavored “beverage base powder”
  • The usual package of condiments etc: a pack of Nescafe, a non-dairy powder creamer, a salt package, two pieces of gum, pizza seasoning (why?), sugar, a pack of waterproof matches, a tissue, a spoon, and of course a moist-towelette so the soldiers with etiquette can clean up when finished.

Today’s menu is merely satisfactory. Sometimes they contain all sources of fancy extras such as (Real!) M&Ms, apple-cinnamon “muffin tops” (so you only have to eat the best part of the muffin), hot coco, or the favorite “HOOAH!” energy bar.

The cheesy-filled pretzels today look the best, and I start with them. My MRE routine is usually the same: pick at a few snacks, then once I’ve been at my desk for a few hours go through the process of cooking the main meal. You simply add an ounce of water to the MRE Heater Bag, and insert the main course into the bag. The water heats the food using some sort of oxidation-reduction reaction with the magnesium in the heater bag (yes, I am a scientist at heart), and within 5 minutes you can remove your main course and voila! A hot dinner without ever having to leave your desk. There is even generally enough heat left over to prepare a decent cup (or, umm, plastic bag) of Nescafe.

And there you have it! A complete dinner and lots of extras all for about 70 cents (on the underground market), no cleanup or getting-up required. Kabul life hacks are great. Now it’s back to work!



Some days during Kabul winters, I look at my bukharee and my heart breaks for the people literally freezing to death in the refugee camps, not far from my home. On my bratty days though, I resent everyone in the world who has central heating.  Mostly, I look at my bukharee, the one that keeps me warm in the office all day, and I think “you are amazing”.

There are many shapes and sizes of these indoor heaters and they burn all kinds of things including gas, sawdust and coal. My personal favourite however, is burning wood. There’s something very toasty about the crackling of the wood and when it starts to radiate enough heat for the whole room, you barely remember how cold it was when you stepped in.

buharee2The bukharee is very needy and demands attention at least once every 20 minutes or so, when you have to maneuver open the lid, trying to avoid finger burns, and throw in more wood. Kept warm though, it can serve a myriad of purposes. A stove top that can boil water or heat up anything! I can attest to the fact that a can of tomato soup tastes homemade with the help of the bukharee smoke. The bukharee is also a room freshener AND you don’t have to throw your orange peels away if you place them on top. And of course… who needs a paper shredder when there’s a hungry fire in the middle of your office? I clean old useless receipts out of my purse daily.

Though it has melted the tip of my shoes twice, shut down on me every time I left for 30 minutes or more, and cost me a few fingerprints; I love my bukharee enough to call it a charming aspect to my life in Afghanistan.

Introducing: DAILY QUIRKS

We are excited to announce a new section of our PARSA Living and Working in Afghanistan Blog called Daily Quirks. This will be a fun, light-hearted collection of short posts that will give our readers a peek into what makes life special for us in Kabul. We want to share with you the little things that makes life so special here – the things that you wouldn’t see in the media.

Our first post is written by our Voice of Afghan Youth Producer, Mina Sharif, who joined PARSA in August 2014 and has brought an amazing vibrancy and sense of enthusiasm to our Kabul offices. She writes about her much-loved bukharee – check it out here!

Yasin and Marnie in with TA Bamiyan

In October, Yasin and Marnie had a community meeting with the women of our Trade Afghan cooperative in Bamiyan to discuss the merits of our program and what they need for the future. I loved the conversation that they had with us. The women that we spoke with thanked us for helping them find markets for their handicrafts and told us what they learned about business. They said “We love to work on our handcrafts away from home so we can be together. Coming to PARSA gives us a place not to feel so alone in our work. Could you please provide a kindergarten teacher so our little children can learn while we focus on the work? Also we have weaving skills.  Can we weave here and can you find a market for our weaving?  We will fix our own lunch if we can have a little spot to do so.”  After we talked about the meeting, Yasin and I realized that we have created a self-organizing true cooperative by listening to the women of Bamiyan. And they are finding ways to support their families.  We have 160 women enrolled in the program, and are soon expanding to 250.  We are launching a campaign to meet their requests for 2015.  Our goal is $50,000 for the year.  This will also allow us to expand into remote villages, bringing women to PARSA twice a year to pick up work, meet with others and sell work which will provide over 25 families headed by women with a yearly income.  Oh!! They want a cow, too.  To learn how to sell dairy products.  If you are interested in supporting this enterprising group of Afghan women please contact Yasin at

Opinion – Re: “Stop Trying to Save the World” article

We are starting a new section of our PARSA blog and newsletters called “Opinions”. We will be sharing our thoughts and ideas about the current situation, and responding to relevant articles and current affairs.

Our first piece is written by Alyssa, our Communications Manager, in response to an article entitled “Stop Trying to Save the World” which discusses the problems with international development and ways to fix it. Read the original article here.

Quote: “What I want to talk sh*t on is the paradigm of the Big Idea—that once we identify the correct one, we can simply unfurl it on the entire developing world like a picnic blanket.”

This is why I am proud of our approach at PARSA – we design projects unique to a specific community to suit that community’s individual needs, and we always ensure that the community plays a key role in the project design. MarnieYasin and PARSA’s leadership realized early on that “Big Ideas” do not solve complex problems – even using the same idea for nearby communities might not work, let alone using it for countries that are continents apart.

If donors – especially large scale donors and governments – would stop encouraging the quick fix Big Idea approach, international development would be a hell of a lot more effective, and a lot more progress would be made towards solving the problems that Big Ideas intend to (but never do) solve.

The article goes on to lay out a major problem that nonprofits are facing with the common donor tendency to judge an entire organization by its overhead costs: “this obsession with overhead keeps charities from reaching the scale required to take on large problems….It’s one number that allows you to compare the soup kitchen with the anti-corruption think tank” but it means that for a nonprofit to have any chance at successful fundraising they have to hide or minimize their overhead costs in very counter-productive ways.

The world really needs to change the way that they judge nonprofits, and the way they look at development. Great article.


SONY DSCAs one of our newest members of our PARSA family, Alyssa Hoseman has been with PARSA for nearly two years now. She is our Communications Manager and is in charge of sharing PARSA and everything we do with the world. Contact her at

Badakhshan – Our Program Plans


Many of you have been following our work in Badakhshan and are interested to know what our plans are for PARSA projects in the province. Badakhshan is one of the poorest regions of Afghanistan and has some of the most alarming statistics regarding issues like healthcare, education, women’s rights, a poor economy, and extremely high rates of of orphaned children or children abandoned by their families who are unable to care for them. Yet due to its remote location Badkahshan has largely remained out of the worst of the conflicts of the past thirty years, and its people remain open-minded and open to outside assistance.

kidsFor that reason we see Badakhshan as a province where we could be as successful as we have been in Bamiyan, where the situation is similar. Hence the programs that we are planning to establish in Badakhshan will take what we have learned in Bamiyan and follow our successes there.

Our first initiative will be to establish a Trade Afghan Women’s Center. This will serve two purposes: firstly, to establish economic opportunities for women artisans. Women from Faizabad and the participating villages will be transported in and out of our women’s center where they will receive training in regionally appropriate trades and learn basic business skills. We will train them in products that we will then purchase to sell nationally and internationally through our Trade Afghan product line. Secondly the women’s center will serve as an alternative to the national orphanage that will provide housing for the twenty or so girls who are unable to live in the orphanage due to lack of female staff and space.


Another focus for Badakhshan will be to continue to expand and improve our Scout program in the province, both by working with our current troop in the National Orphanage and by establishing a new girls troop, likely with the girls who will live in our women’s center. All our Scouts will be involved in our Voice of Afghan Youth programming. We have decided to focus our VoAY for Badakhshan on highlighting the world famous wildlife and nature of the province – from 7000m mountains to snow leopards, Marco Polo sheep and other rare creatures.

Lastly, we are working to ensure that the residents of Argo who suffered losses in the landslides of earlier this year are not forgotten. When we visited recently we were frustrated by the lack of progress and that the promises of government officials and those who handled the multi-million dollar donations have not been kept. We are following up with the situation and have already registered an official complaint with the government regarding this issue, and are looking to President Ghani who is working to improve Rule of Law to take a personal concern in this issue.

Everyone at PARSA loves Badakhshan province and we are very passionate about establishing PARSA projects there. Stay tuned to learn more about our progress, and help us by donating to our Badakhshan project through our Help Us page.

Giving Thanks for Afghanistan with Shamsa


SONY DSCYesterday we had another incredible Friday Brunch with the kids from Shamsa Village Orphanage. This time the event was themed “Giving Thanks for Afghanistan” and we had plenty of fun activities. There were Attan instructors who taught the kids the traditional Afghan dance, the kids helped us out by cutting out snowflakes and stars to use for decorating for our PARSA Winter Fest, and Mina asked the kids to draw what they love about Afghanistan – and got plenty of wonderful pictures. She said that “almost all the pictures had a school, books, and an Afghan flag” – the kids might be from difficult backgrounds, but they love their country and love being Afghan.mina drawing

In the end the kids told jokes, ran wild playing tag and chasing paper airplanes, and had an all-around great time. The Shamsa kids love their monthly getaways to PARSA – its a break from orphanage routine and a chance to just be fun-loving, average kids. And we absolutely love having them. Once again a big thank you to our donors who make days like yesterday possible. Enjoy the pictures!







A note on the importance of mutual understanding

Back in July PARSA was contacted by a unique Pittsburgh restaurant called Conflict Kitchen whose mandate is to serve food from countries that the U.S. is in conflict with. They serve food from the selected conflict country and set up informative, interactive activities that are designed to foster a mutual understanding between their diners and the residents of the country whose food CK is serving.

When Conflict Kitchen contacted us to see if we would be interested in helping them create an activity for kids, we loved their vision and were happy to participate. The result was a small booklet distributed to CK diners with short stories and anecdotes we recorded with kids from Shamsa Village Orphanage – check out our blog entry about it here.

Recently Conflict Kitchen came under criticism for their decision to highlight Afghanistan as a conflict country. In an opinion piece published in a local newspaper, a writer wrote that they felt CK was “promoting politics rather than dialogue” and that because the U.S. was not in direct conflict with the people of Afghanistan or the Afghan government, she felt that it “would be an insult to the thousands of Afghans and my own countrymen and women who have been lost in that conflict” to participate in CK’s Afghan program.

Conflict Kitchen wrote me and asked for our opinion on the controversy. My response is below:

In 2002 when the attack on the World Trade Center occurred, warfare changed for humanity on the global scale, and in particular for the citizens of Afghanistan. The war in Afghanistan is a national war against terrorists that are both Afghan and “outsiders” such as Al Qaeda.

As Ms. Murtazashvili stated, when the U.S. joined this war, we joined Afghan leaders and citizens who want a democratic system of governance. We went to war alongside the national Afghan government to fight against fundamentalists and terrorists.

Warfare against terrorism tears countries apart. As we can see in Syria and Iraq this is the unfortunate war of the future, and Afghanistan has been one of its most high-profile battlefields. Thus although the U.S. government is not in conflict with the majority of the Afghan people or with the Afghan government, it is in conflict with terrorists who operate on Afghan soil. Consequently many Americans see Afghanistan as a country that they are in conflict with.

The wars of the future – the war on terrorism at the forefront – are a global issue, and it is imperative that friendly countries begin to build mutual understanding between their citizens. Bringing the citizens of the world together in this way is how global terrorism will fail. Thus whether a U.S. conflict with the people or government of a foreign country is direct or perceived to be so by American citizens, projects that build this mutual understanding are invaluable. This is what makes the Conflict Kitchen vision so important for a future that sees the citizens of the world united in peace.

Scouts at the Badakhshan Orphanage

Mohsin and Amin Our Afghan Scouts in Badakshan are residents of the local orphanage. They have been working with the local police on the “Messengers of Peace” project and as part of our trip to Badakhshan we took part in a ceremony marking the completion of the project. Commandant Baba Jan, a very esteemed General in the Afghan National Police, joined our ceremony and acknowledged the youth and the police for there work:  “God willing you will have a long, happy youth and a safe future for your families, unlike I had in my life. I am working with other Afghan leaders hoping that we will be able to provide you stability so you have this positive future.”  Our boys were thrilled to be a part of the ceremony and felt proud that their role was an important one. As a part of the trip we also made plans to assist the 20 girls associated with the orphanage but not able to live there due to lack of living space or older women to supervise them. We are also planning our Voice of Afghan Youth program for Badakhshan. Great to be with the boys!!!

Scouts backs

The Badakhshan Scouts were proud to be apart of the ceremony


Yasin, Dawn and Marnie attending the Messenger of Peace closing ceremony.


Commandant Baba Jan with Amin.

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Pen Farthing is the CNN Hero of the Year!

Four years ago I met Louise Hastie, a volunteer with “Nowzad Charity” which is a program to rescue cats and dogs in Afghanistan. Our first meeting took place over my kitchen table while a local vet tried to help me save an injured puppy I’d found outside my door. When PARSA moved from Karte-3 to our new offices in Marastoon we inherited a large stray dog and cat population that survived here off scraps from the open garbage pits used by the local residents; this led to Louise and I working together to get the many puppies I found in Marastoon neutered and adopted into new homes. I was then introduced to Pen Farthing, the founder of Nowzad, who worked with Louise and shared with her the impossible of making a systemic impact on Kabul’s stray dog population – not only to have the animals treated humanely by locals, but also to arrest the rabies epidemic that is still a major threat to the health of human communities, especially to children. PARSA’s Country Director, Yasin Farid, and I supported this vision as part of our own PARSA vision for Building Healthy Afghan Communities, and over the years we have had the privilege of supporting Pen and his amazing team of staff and supporters.

Today Pen won the CNN Hero of the Year Award, on behalf of the Nowzad organization. This accomplishment is a testament to his vision, perseverance in the face of incredible difficulties, and especially to his Nowzad staff – both international and national. PARSA is proud to have been a part of this story. PARSA and Nowzad work together in Afghanistan in a way that I wish more organizations could – with complete support for each other. More importantly, PARSA supports Nowzad’s vision for work in Afghanistan in the future. When I spoke to Louise this morning to congratulate her, her first words were “Now we can get the support we need to really focus on our “Trap, Neuter, Release” program!!!” This is what Nowzad is all about….and on behalf of PARSA, their partner, we congratulate Pen and his team on an incredibly difficult job well done.  For more about the Nowzad story please click here….

Oh, by the way, my family has 14 dogs, including our huge 75kg mascot “Sherak”, and all our dogs have a job to do at PARSA.  They protect the area by chasing away stray dogs which keeps our compound disease-free. We are the first example of the effective benefits of a “Trap, Neuter, Release” program. Louise and her team take amazing care of our animals. It makes our life here so much easier….a personal thanks to the Nowzad team in Afghanistan.

Norm and the gang

Dr. Norm looking impressed by a few of our 12 family dogs.

Buzkashi Day!

There is not much to say except *amazing*! For someone who loves horses, ancient traditions, full-contact sports and modern-day warriors, standing front row at a full throttle Afghan buzkashi match is literally a dream come true. The most incredible part is the horses – their power, size, and fierce grace. They know the game just as well as the “chopandoz” who ride them. They are bred across Central Asia – historically in Afghanistan but breeding programs here mostly disappeared during the wars, so most of the beautiful beasts we saw today come from Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. They are worth more than many European luxury cars – the best of them selling for $60-100,000 dollars. They are owned by the rich-of-the-rich Afghan elite – high government officials, top businessmen, warlords – who then nominate their horse’s rider (“chopandoz” in Dari) much like Nascar drivers get sponsored by whoever pays for the car they drive. The chopandoz are incredible athletes, and practically become one with the horse they ride.

As to the rules of the game, as a first-time viewer, it didn’t seem apparent to me that there are any. I used to describe buzkashi as some sort of full-contact gruesome version of polo, but now realize it is far from that, and far more confusing. There are, however, objectives that are apparent. Basically the object of the game is the “boz” which is the dead, gutted carcass of a goat or calf, which is placed at one end of the giant, sandy arena. Nearby there is a 2m meter circle dug into the sand and highlighted with chalk, and on the complete opposite side of the arena is a bright green flag. To score a point, a player has to pick up the boz and carry it all the way around the flag pole on the other side of the arena then back to the white circle and drop it inside. Seems straight forward enough.

buzkashi rumble

Well its not. First of all, reaching down to pick up a very heavy dead carcass from the back of a giant horse is a feat in itself. Add to that having 30 other giant horses kicking and stomping on you and your horse, plus other warrior-men also trying to grab the carcass (and you), or just beating you out of the way with their thick leather horse whips, and that alone would be quite a show. But then you have to somehow attach the carcass to yourself (by wrapping your leg around it) and gallop around a huge arena at full speed with all the other giants in pursuit. And dropping the carcass into the chalk “goal” isn’t easy either. As to rules, as I said, anything goes. The riders are constantly hitting each other, the horses kicking whoever they feel like, and if anyone falls off and gets trampled the game doesn’t even stop – they just pull him off to the side and everyone keeps riding. As far as teams go, there are possibly loose “alliances” that exist under the surface, but to an untrained onlooker it’s just a free-for-all. Whenever someone scores they ride their horse over to the announcer who ties a pretty red ribbon on the horse’s halter and presumably givers the chopandoz some amount of prize money. And that’s it. This goes on for several hours, and at some point simply ends.

The whole thing is quite violent, with chopandoz and horses both bloody by the end – and today’s match was apparently just a second day warmup during a ten day tournament. To me, buzkashi is the closest thing to medieval warfare that still exists in the world, minus the swords and chain mail. I imagine that all the pre-gun battles in Afghanistan – those fought against the invading armies of everyone from Alexander the Great to Genghis Khan and Timur – looked something like the heart of modern day buzkashi rumble. Swords might be lacking, but the fervor is still there.

Buzkashi might not be for everyone, but it is worth seeing to remember what battles used to be like, and for experiencing Afghan tradition up close. The very best part of all of it is feeling the energy of the crowd, loud and proud, cheering on their chosen chopandoz champion, laughing and having a generally wonderful time. In the West we take big sporting events for granted – from junior-high onwards every one of us has the opportunity to attend something of the sort. But in a country still pulling itself out of thirty years of war and trying to reclaim its traditions and heritage, a buzkashi match is a rare opportunity where even the poorest of the poor can show up and have a great time (although it is unfortunately generally male-only attendance). Whether Afghans decide to keep buzkashi as is, warlike and raw, or turn it into a more “modern” sport that could one day become international is up to them (I personally love it as is!) – but the point is that it is a vehicle to bring people together in a positive way. And how exciting it is!

– Alyssa




buzkashi run

At Home in Faizabad

We are staying at Mr. Nasruddin’s house, a friend for quite some time now.  He has sent his family to be guests at a relative’s in order to accommodate us here.  There are 9 of us in two small rooms, intermittent electricity, no running water, one toilet, one bathing room with icy cold water  – and we chose this.  Mr. Nasruddin’s son cooks our meals, and everyone joins us for our evening dinner. You would think that it would be difficult, but somehow we have all learned to get our work done, with everyone including the drivers weighing in with their opinions on all matters.

I don’t think people who have not lived with Afghans understand the amount of talking and consensus making that goes on in Afghan culture.  There is on our trip a slight nod toward Yasin and I having the most responsibility and therefore one should at least act like one is interested in what we have to say. But mostly everyone feels compelled to weigh in with an opinion on everything. And we listen. Today we had competing agendas with half the team working on a “closing” ceremony with the Scouts for our Messengers of Peace program, a visit with a local colleague who is working with us on formulating a residential Trade Afghan women’s center that is modeled on our center in Bamiyan, and a local “Buzkashi” event, the traditional free-for-all-polo game, using a carcass of a goat or calf…we managed all three, plus Alyssa and Reese shopped for “chapandaz” clothing and came home looking, well, exotic.  Alyssa is jazzed up and muttering about how authentic warrior games are and telling us she should have been born 1,000 years ago. Reese is worn out from trying to manage the crowd that Alyssa, Dawn and I drew in an all-male buzkashi audience, and from trying to make sure we didn’t get run over by panicked horses…most of which we were oblivious to. Yasin wants a $60,000 Buzkashi horse. Mohsin, Amin and Sharif are flush with the success of having the top commander for Badakshan attend our closing ceremony and how proud the Scouts were.  And our drivers are cracking “Laghmani” jokes (the province they are both from) most of which Yasin refuses to translate.

Oh, and finally, Dawn and I finalized a contract and submitted our IRS reports in the midst of it all….Sharif sighed in contentment tonite as we sat together for dinner: “See, now we are all family and we sit for dinner”….and it does feel like that in the best way.

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Road to Shiva, and Yaks

Somewhere in the course of our Badakhshan trip our team decided that we need to add yaks to our PARSA Farm. So this morning Yasin, Habib and I started our day bright and early and headed to the livestock market to search for baby “khashgaows”. We didn’t find what we were looking for so Reese and our new driver, Noorullah, joined our team and we headed towards the mountains, with Lake Shiva as our goal, in the hope of finding yak herders on route.

Our “pair of Laughmanis” drivers – Habib and Noorullah.

The road was beautiful, following a river beneath snow-capped mountains lined by trees with autumn leaves of reds and oranges shining underneath a bright blue sky. Our search for yaks was quickly answered when we saw a group of the giant hairy beasts being herded up the road. We jumped out of the van to admire their greatness and for Yasin to negotiate with the owner. The outcome, although no promises yet, is that we will one day soon have a pair of adorable baby yaks roaming around our PARSA gardens.


We continued on from yak-bargaining and followed the road towards Shiva Lake, a crystalline high-alpine lake that we thought would make a good setting for a Voice of Afghan Youth trip. Along the road we came upon a pair of locals leading a trio of gorgeous, full-sized, hot-blooded Kyrgyz buzkashi horses. Again we all jumped out of the car to admire their beauty and for Yasin to ask for prices. When the rider told him 60,000, we initially thought he was talking in afghanis and were already pulling out our wallets – after all 60,000 afs is what Yasin had paid for the horses who are now living on our PARSA Farm and getting such a beautiful animal for the same price was clearly an unmissable deal. However we soon realized our mistake when the rider clarified that the horse’s value was actually 60,000 dollars and all three of them were owned by a rich official who was not looking forward to giving up his prestigious animals. They were on their way to Faizabad to take part in a 10 day Buzkashi that started this afternoon (check back in with our blog tomorrow to learn more about buzkashi – we’ll be taking our Voice of Afghan Youth kids to the event).

The horses’ high prices didn’t stop us from dreaming about owning one, or from getting in a quick gallop up and down the mountain road on one of the large chestnut stallions. As a fairly experienced rider I can honestly say I have never ridden something with so much powerful grace anywhere in the world. Central Asia – from Afghanistan to Kazakhstan – is still the world’s heart when it comes to beautiful horses.

We continued onwards but soon realized that after three hours of driving Lake Shiva was still at least five hours away, so there was no way we could make it there and back to Faizabad before nightfall. We reluctantly turned around, with Reese and I having to shelve our competitive plans to experience a November swim in a glacial lake. All in all, the day was a success. We learned about tomorrow’s buzkashi which will be a perfect setting for our VOAY outing, we tentatively ordered baby yaks for our PARSA Farm, and Yasin set a new dream for himself – owning a buzkashi horse.

Livestock market, early in the morning

Yasin bargaining with the yak herders

Yasin bargaining with the yak herders

The gorgeous horses of Badakhshan.

Riding beautiful horses in front of beautiful mountains.

Returning to Argo


In May of this year our PARSA team traveled to Ab Barak in Argo District of Badakhshan province in response to the landslide disaster that buried parts of three villages and killed hundreds of people. Usually PARSA does not partake in emergency relief, but in this case we received specific requests for psychosocial care, particularly for the children orphaned by the landslide. Our team – Yasin, Norm, Reese, and myself – made the fourteen-hour trip and found the situation in chaos. The problem was not too little help, it was too much.

The “Argo Landslide” media hype – with its exaggerated death toll of 3000 people and hundreds of homes destroyed – had gained so much international attention that every aid organization, plus government officials, individual do-gooders, and of course vote-seeking representatives of the dueling Ghani-Abdullah election standoff, had showed up to offer help (and benefit from the media attention). The provincial government received more aid money in a few weeks than it had in total in the last decade. People were handing out all sorts of short term aid packages – from bags of rice to winter clothes, meals paid for by then-presidential-candidate Abdullah were being cooked in large pots and handed out to dueling villagers among the flash of media cameras, tents were set up for the village children to get some normalcy and not miss out on school, there were even individuals handing out 500afs (10 USD) bank notes to mobbing crowds that then needed to be dispersed by firing warning shots with AK47s.

As far as we found, the psychosocial needs of the most vulnerable of the population were being taken care of at the time, the orphaned children had been absorbed into the homes of the survivors, and the immediate needs of the people were being met. Everyone was throwing around long-term promises of relocating and rebuilding the village, and of taking preventative measures to relocate homes in line of future landslides. We decided we would come back after the hype died down and see what promises had been kept.

Back to Argo

Our PARSA team is now back in Badakhshan making long term plans for our programs here. We are checking in with our Scout Troop in the Faizabad government-run orphanage and making adjustments so that the Scouts here will be more effective, plus taking notes on how the orphanage needs to be improved to meet government standards. Dawn is investigating potential women’s products for our Trade Afghan program. We are all looking for stories unique to Badakhshan for Voice of Afghan Youth. And today our Argo team headed back to Ab Barak to check on the village and see if the promises had been kept.

Delivered bricks, just sitting in the snow

The answer is a big no. The principal change we saw is that some loads of bricks have been delivered, supposedly to the area where the villages are meant to be relocated to, and a few house foundations have been built. Almost all the UNHCR tents are gone, the villagers say no media or trucks full of handouts have shown up in months, and signs of the millions of dollars that the Badakhshan government received for rebuilding are nowhere to be found. Not to mention that the disaster early in the year meant that the farmers were not able to produce their regular stores of crops and firewood, leaving the entire village in short supply for the coming winter.

With only one dump truck and a handful of workers, progress on rebuilding homes in somewhere between slow and non-existent.

Whereas on our last visit the villagers seemed tired of outsiders’ intrusions, this time they were extremely welcoming. They told us they had not had anyone check progress for months, and although they were aware of the government’s promises and money allocated to helping them, their district representatives all live in Kabul and have done nothing to demand their rights. They thanked us repeatedly for coming, offered us tea and lunch, and asked us to help them find ways to build the promised houses and bring in firewood before the freezing winter sets in completely.

What we have garnered from today is that there are two things PARSA can do to intervene in Argo. The first is to find the organizations and government officials who made promises to rebuild and help the villagers get through their first post-disaster winter and hold them responsible; the second is to launch a long term economic program for the region that will give the people a new skill and will have the potential to reduce the poverty of the village in the long run. In the coming days we will be contacting other organizations that operate in the region to see how we can best approach these two objectives. The situation in Argo is just as heartbreaking today as it was back in May, and PARSA is renewing our commitment to assisting the people there.

– Alyssa

Check out our Argo Relief Blogs from our first trip to Ab Barak here:

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To work – and to the Bazaar….

Well, I really appreciate how seasoned our team is on our field trips. The operative word is flexibility. We woke up to a nice breakfast and talked through what we wanted to accomplish on the trip. Yasin’s plan was to take Reese and Alyssa to the Argo landslide they visited last spring to see how aid to the village had progressed. Mohsin and Amin were going to work with the Scout program in the local orphanage. Dawn and I, as always, have reports and proposals to work on, which we planned to get relief from by visiting the local bazaar. We are planning an activity day with the Scouts and I asked Mohsin what he had planned. He said “a field trip”!  When I asked where he was taking the kids he said “well, first we have to ask them where they want to go…” I love how our staff work with our beneficiaries because they are so oriented to having them be part of the planning and to supporting them in what they need and want.

Within an hour of leaving in our planned directions, one of our cars broke down and all plans changed but we kept sight of what we all wanted to accomplish, the car was fixed and we all got to work.

Dawn and I had a heavenly walk in the bazaar, which we so rarely get to do together, and I have very few friends who would enjoy it. Dawn took pictures, again an activity that we don’t do much anymore as we have been here so long. Then, the afternoon working on computers and talking to each other as we worked until the team came in. Great day.

– Marnie

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Back to Badakshan…


We are a motley PARSA team.  The newest member, Alyssa has been with us for 2 years, and Yasin with PARSA 18 years.  What we have in common is that we love traveling through Afghanistan by road…and we have different ways of settling in, and coping with the long hours. Dawn and I, are old friends from elementary school, in Kabul and then again the last 10 years living at PARSA.  As we are now in our 50’s, we are testing our status as “elder’s” in a country that reveres the aged-taking the best spots in the car… after Reese and Yasin were called upon by Dawn and I to call our phones so we can find them once too often, Reese, my son, made it clear that our “elder” status was losing its shine with the “younger’s” of the group.  We have arrived after our 12 hour drive, welcomed by the family we stay with in Faizabad. A warm stove, dinner waiting, and looking forward to a comfortable night, Afghan style, which means 9 of us in two rooms.  Cozy and looking forward to our day tomorrow.



Getting Excited for the Holidays with our PARSA Cows

At PARSA we have decided that the last months of the year are for mixing and matching traditions from Afghanistan and abroad for a Make-Your-Own-Holiday celebration. Today we decorated one of the trees in front of our offices with ornaments made by the women in Palwasha’s economic programs, including intricately beaded bananas, camels, strawberries and donkeys. Our newest baby calf on the PARSA farm, plus Kaka Daoud, joined us for pictures, and we had a great afternoon – we have fun at PARSA!!



Shamsa Halloween Brunch


On Friday, October 31t the kids from Shamsa Village Orphanage travelled to PARSA to join us for brunch and all sorts of fun Halloween activities. Pumpkin carving was a favorite (especially wearing the pumpkins as upside down helmets), plus mask making, pin-the-tail on the donkey, eating doughnuts from a string, sports and more. The Kabul community responded to our request to fund this great event and it was a huge success. Enjoy the photos and our video slideshow below!




VOAY Team in Bamiyan


A Voice of Afghan Youth scouting team has spent the past few days in Bamiyan scouting filming locations and gathering ideas for planning the VOAY TV and radio programming. Marnie, Norm, Reese, Yasin and Mina visited all the favorite spots in the Bamiyan valley including climbing the Buddhas, Band-i-Amir (lake), Red City, and into the surrounding scenic valleys. We are looking forward to following the successes of PARSA’s exciting new program.

Opening Ceremony Scout Volunteer Society

This past Sunday, September 21, the official Opening Ceremony of the Afghan Scout Volunteers Society was held at PARSA’s main offices in Marastoon. The ceremony was attended by volunteer Scout leaders from several provinces, as well as two members of parliament who are supporters of the Scouts: Baktash Seyawash and Dr. Ramazan Bashardost.

It was a great afternoon and an important step forward on the road to expanding the Afghan Scouts into a nationwide successful program. PARSA’s Executive Director Marnie Gustavson handed over the society’s official registration with the Ministry of Justice to the Chief of the Volunteer Society, Sayeed Hussain Agha.

It was a great afternoon and the entire PARSA family is proud of this important step taken by our Afghan Scout leadership.

Visit the Afghan Scouts’ Website to learn more about Scouting in Afghanistan.

Welcome to Mina Sharif!

Mina Sharif has joined the PARSA team! She will be leading PARSA’s newest project: The Voice of Afghan Youth, a TV and radio program which will be created by the Afghan Scout youth and broadcasted across the country in order to showcase the talents, ideas, and ingenuity of the young people of Afghanistan. The program will also help spread PARSA’s name and that of the Afghan Scouting Movement.

Mina is an Afghan-Canadian and has spent the majority of the last few years working in Afghanistan. She formerly worked with Tolo TV as a producer for their Afghan Sesame Street program, and her experiences and creativity will go a long way in ensuring that the Voice of Afghan Youth is a success.

Welcome Mina, we look forward to enjoying the first episodes of VOAY!

Learn more about this new exciting project:

Turkey International Scout Camp

The Afghan Scouts are proud to announce that our trip this past month to Istanbul for the Turkey International Scout Camp was a success. The event was hosted by the Scouting and Guiding Federation of Turkey and sanctioned by the World Organization of the Scouting Movement, and hosted Scouts from eight countries including Georgia, Libya, Palestine, Morocco and Turkmenistan.

We sent three members of our Afghan Scout leadership team to the event with the goal of linking the Afghan Scouts with their Turkish counterparts and paving the way to sending a group of Cub Scouts to the event in future years, and also to invite Turkish troops to Afghanistan. Jawad – who attended the event on behalf of the Afghan Scouts, was able to establish a good relationship with Mr. Hassan Subashi, the Turkish Chief of Federation, and reported that “he is very interested in the Afghan Scouts and learning more about Afghanistan and our Scouting system, and is ready to come to Kabul whenever we invite him.”

Our three representatives also participated in the event’s Culture Day, where they sparked interest in fellow participants by showcasing Afghanistan’s beautiful traditional clothing and delicious selection of local dried fruits. The event was overall a great success and the Afghan Scouts are looking forward to participating in more WOSM events in the future.

Congratulations to Pen Farthing


All of us at PARSA are proud to announce that Nowzad’s founder, Pen Farthing, has been announced as a 2014 CNN Hero. Nowzad is an animal-rescue organization based in Kabul that helps soldiers who have bonded with dogs and cats while on tour reconnect with their adopted pets in their home country – so far Nowzad has helped 700 soldiers. Nowzad also works to promote animal welfare in Afghanistan and runs a “trap, neuter, vaccine, and release” program to help control the city’s massive population of stray animals, and also help combat rabies.

PARSA has a special connection to Nowzad as they first began operations in Kabul at the PARSA compound in Marastoon. Pen, Louise Hastie – who manages the Kabul kennels, and all of Nowzad’s Afghan staff are dear friends of all of us at PARSA. They have helped many of us take care of the four-legged friends that we have adopted here in Afghanistan and help keep us sane.

To learn more about Nowzad visit their website or check out Pen’s latest book about his work, called “Wylie: The Dog That Never Gave Up”. Congratulations Pen for being named a CNN hero – a well-deserved honor indeed.

Conflict Kitchen Interviews at Shamsa

A few months ago PARSA was contacted by a restaurant in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania called Conflict Kitchen. The restaurant follows a unique concept: they only serve food from countries that the US is in conflict with, and they do their best to educate their customers about an aspect of each country that they would not normally see in US media.

For Afghanistan, Conflict Kitchen decided that they wanted to share stories from the point of view of Afghan children. And not stories related to war and conflict, just stories that tell about the everyday lives of the children and how they see the world. PARSA was contacted because of the work we do with children – both through the Afghan Scouts and through our orphanage work – and Yasin and Alyssa agreed to conduct interviews with children from Shamsa Village Orphanage.

It was quite a fun experience for everyone involved – the list of questions that Conflict Kitchen suggested we ask were very unconventional and the kids giggled away as we asked them things like “if you were an animal, which animal would you be and why?” or “if you were president, what would you do for Afghanistan?”

Conflict Kitchen recently finished compiling stories from children and published a small booklet of the kids’ stories that is now available at their restaurant. We hope that their customers will appreciate the stories from the Shamsa kids – we certainly enjoyed them!

Download the Booklet Here or visit the booklet’s page on the Conflict Kitchen Website.

We would also like to give a special thank you to all the kids at Shamsa Village who offered to be part of the interviews: Qadrat, Qasim, Bashir, Hekmattulah, Aisha, Fatima, Feroza, and Farima. Thanks!

Working in PARSA’s Gardens

Enjoy these pictures of our women’s agriculture training program at the PARSA gardens in Marastoon. The women – most of whom are from our ambitious group based in Dast-i-Barchi – have been practicing their agricultural skills and have used the land at PARSA to plant tomatoes, eggplants, zucchini and more. They also tend to our orchard of fresh apricot trees. The women get to bring home or sell the majority of their crop, and the Afghan Garden Kitchen purchases some of the fresh produce for use in our popular Friday Brunch in Marastoon. It’s a great program and adds to the wonderful atmosphere at our offices.


PARSA FARM: Letter to Donors

This short email was written by Marnie to the initial donors of the PARSA Farm – The Linda Norgrove Foundation with support from Dr. Sophia Wilcox. It dates back to last fall, just before the farm went through its first winter. It is amazing how much of a success the farm has become, and how much life it has given to PARSA. Read on!!

For those of you who have not visited PARSA, we are lucky to have our offices located at Marastoon, a twenty acre spread on the outskirts of Kabul with fruit orchards and tree lined lanes and a considerable amount of land available for agricultural programs. Over the years, as we expand our programs to meet the needs of poor communities we have worked to use the land for the benefit of poor women in the local community.

Osman and his chickensThis year, thanks to a donation from the Linda Norgrove Foundation and support from Dr. Sophia Wilcox, Yasin, our country director has started a small farm animal project with 10 local women.  It was a happy day when we bought our first milking cow and our chicks for our poultry program.  10 women from the surrounding area, now tend four cows and the chickens taking home milk and eggs to sell to their neighbors earning badly needed cash for their destitute families.  It has brought changes to our compound, and many a Friday (our day off) comes when I hear early in the morning,  a lowing cow waiting to be milked.  I text message Yasin “The cows are yelling!  Who is milking them today?” and he responds “Me!  I am on my way!”

 What I did not expect from this project was the excitement that our farm animal program would generate in our staff. I have learned that Afghan’s really like farms and love enterprises.  They are a culture of merchants, which is why so many economic programs now are focusing on supporting the development of micro-enterprises. Now, in the afternoon, it is typical to see many staff go home with their bottle of fresh milk or eggs that they have purchased from the women.  Yasin even found five chickens in a poor neighbor’s house that were not being fed, because they did not have the money.  He bought them and brought them to our chicken coop, and put his son, Osman in charge of caring for them- our first “rescue chickens”.  They are now benefitting from a soy feed mixture of feed, that we learned about through our soy flour distribution project and they are laying eggs to Osman’s delight.  Yasin is preparing to teach children in our programs how to care for small poultry coops.

The nights are getting cold and I fully expect to see the cows sporting colorful winter blankets, typical of Afghan farmer’s who value their animals.  Plans for next year include expanding into beekeeping in a four-acre field. Next week, Dr. Sophie is helping us buy two sheep and then we will have a full training program for our local women.  You might ask how this program works in an urban city like Kabul of five million residents?  You would be amazed at how many back yard farm animals there are in the city as well as herds of goats and sheep roaming the streets eating from garbage heaps. Healthy animals like a cow can augment a family income up to $60 a month, which is a lot money for many families who try to scrape by on $40 a month through wages.  Congratulations to Yasin and our program staff who have developed a very relevant program, using our donation investment well.  As the program grows it will sustain itself through the income generated from our small farm products as well as support the community women as they earn money from their work on the farm.  Big thank you to our donors!

PARSA Farm: Horses!!

All of us at PARSA, especially Yasin and myself, are very, very excited to announce the arrival of our two long-awaited beautiful young stallions. They came all the way from Tahar in the north of Afghanistan, and there were many difficulties with their trip and arrival to PARSA. Yasin and I had specified that we would like large, healthy horses at an age ready to be ridden, but both of them seemed quite sick when they arrived, and one of them is only 1 year old – 2-3 years too young to ride. We were frustrated at first and worried about the health of them both, not to mention that the younger chestnut was extremely skittish and scared of people. We felt very bad for both of them and have quickly come to love them and are very committed to ensuring that they have a good life here at PARSA.

– Alyssa

We have not yet given them names, so if you have any suggestions email and we will pick our favorites from our PARSA family’s suggestions. Looking forward to hearing from you!!

Mary MacMakin Traveling in Bamiyan

This is a trip report written by PARSA’s founder, Mary MacMakin, who now runs another organization, Afzenda. She went to Bamiyan province to do a survey on the production of cashmere and barak fabric. Even though she is 86 years old she is still going stronger than many of us!

See the original report here: Mary McMakin Cashmere and Barak Survery Report

Greetings from Bamiyan! I slept the better part of two days after returning from the survey and am now ready to tell you all the news. Taher has got the electricity going again in the house where I am staying – it’s city power in the morning and power from a private company in the evening so it’s good until 10 pm and by then the computer’s storage should be full and good for another three hours or so. Any of the items you want more details on, please let me know.

Frutan Sahib and I started from his home in Dehane Qalacha, Gandab Valley, Panjab district, on Sunday, 1 June.

We took the most direct route to Waras (do you have your map handy?) and passed through a wide valley with all the trees, bushes and fields dressed in the fresh new greens of Spring. By chance we passed a qila next to which half a dozen women were on a flat smooth place in the process of making a felt rug so we stopped for pictures. It was a women’s enterprise and they were happy to have an audience and be photoed. The women were sitting around chatting while one laid down the tufts of charcoal-black wool on a rectangular form for a medium-sized rug. The woman placing the wool showed how each handful of wool was passed through the stationary comb several times before being placed in even rows on the form on the ground. Their home could have been made for tourists, very beautiful farm country, and nearby a pair of unusual stone spires rising from reddish rocks named The Two Brothers.

The consensus of opinion in Panjab and Bamiyan was that Waras was the center and main producer of barak fabric. While searching in a shop in the Bamiyan bazaar for buttons for some clothing I was making I did a double-take for the shop-keeper had on a handsome vest made unmistakably from barak with a subtle design from different natural fibers! He had paid $100 for it. I visited the two main handicraft stores in the Bamiyan bazaar and was shown lengths of barak fabric and an overcoat made from barak with a red line making a distinctive pattern with the several natural colored fibers used in the weave. It cost $300.

In Waras we first visited the district governor at his office on the hill above the town. He was agreeable to our project and introduced us to the head of the Women’s Directorate who happened to be sitting in his office also. Because of her capacity to be in touch with Waras women we had our first interview session that very afternoon in the apartment where we were staying. The owner of the apt, Dr Nejati, was very helpful. When Frutan Sahib explained that we were after barak and cashmere he knew of a shop in Waras selling the combs used to gather the cashmere from molting goats. We bought ten of them, one kind small and the other looking more like a small version of a garden rake. The main dry goods store in Waras had a display of about ten lengths of barak made locally. They ranged from five to eight meters in length and cost $30 to $40 a meter. There was no bargaining! They were mainly brown in color, with several shades used to make attractive subtle stripes and the only commercial dye was red which was incorporated into some of the fabrics.

The next morning our driver took us to Haft Kudi (Seven Homes), a small village set into a steep hillside where weaving was taking place. My assumptions were shattered! I had assumed all barak was made as I had seen in Panjab ten years earlier by male weavers using an upright loom. Here in Haft Kudi the weavers were all women and the one ground loom was used in turn by all the weavers. The flat space for the loom had to be carved out of the steep hillside – flat spaces were at a premium so everyone shared the one loom. Close to a dozen women were involved in the set-up of the loom and in hand-spinning of the several kilograms of warp and weft yarn needed to produce five to eight meters barak fabric; several women worked together to stretch the warp threads between the two stationary posts. The husbands, brothers and fathers were the “molidars” – the technicians who rolled, agitated and kneaded the fabric with boiling water poured over it to shrink it down to its dense, wind-proof thickness after it was removed from the loom. It seemed to be a fine example of community effort aimed at income generation for everybody. The women reported that they received an average of 1500 Afs ($26) a meter for their product. There was no bargaining when I offered to buy a length.

The next day was a long drive from Waras southwest to Qonoq Pass separating Bamiyan and Daikundi provinces. The road was about the worst I have ever been on with large stones embedded in the dirt in addition to the usual ruts and holes so I was jolted and tossed non-stop; our minibus was stuck twice in the rushing stream and had to be towed out by helpful travelers – the second deep enough so that water came into the car and our bags of clothing got wet. We laid the soaked items out on the grass and they dried fast in the hot sunshine.

The positive side is that about twenty or more road crews were working on this section of the road, all the way to Sharistan’s district headquarters. After the dramatic views from Qonoq Pass, now in Daikundi, we bumped our way down to Jaus in Sharistan district where we had lunch at a hotel perched on the top of the steep ridge with the rest of the shops and motor repair workshops balanced in a double row. On to Chaprasac and then through a landscape of strange stone statues weathered by wind and rain into weird organic-looking shapes. I asked a young man we picked up what the local people said about this natural art display and he said no notice was taken of them at all! Frutan had called ahead to set a time for a visit with the district head of Sharistan. After tea with this hospitable man I checked a couple of shops in the bazaar for lambs wool and cashmere as a friend in Bamiyan needed some for a knitting training course. There was none, altho one shopkeeper said he could bring some the next day if I were going to be there. I told him no, for we were heading off for goat country in southwest Sharistan district.

Thanks to Frutan’s huge extended family and knowledge of the area – his mother was born and raised here – we stayed the night at private homes. He called ahead to announce our arrival and to make arrangements for the interview- meetings. The narrow road from Sharistan bazaar, cut out of the mountainsides high above the stream’s gorge was the best yet, smooth, no stones or ruts. The first stop was Ghosur where many women and men had gathered to see what kind of help we had to offer. This was our third group of women to interview and it went well due to earlier practice. Afterwards Frutan Sahib distributed a Hoopoe child’s book of folk tales by Idries Shah to each woman, to be read by her child. We spent the night at the home of one of Frutan Sahib’s many cousins and the next day drove down to the bottom part of this broad valley ringed by mountains and part of the great Helmand watershed. We were told that there were 5000 goats in the upper part and 8000 owned in the lower part and our news of cashmere was the first they had heard about its value in the marketplace. We handed out most of our combs and said we would be back to collect the cashmere, called “ileech” in this area, in two or three months.

With a day’s detour to the west to open a small private library in another hillside village – we made our way back to Bamiyan with two nights in Gandab. In Bamiyan I got to the bank in time to get the rest of our cash and then to my room where Zahra, with her husband Taher, runs the Parsa Gift Shop and local women bring her their embroideries to sell. Knowing of our survey for barak and cashmere she took me to the Dohati Valley, north of the main road where many poor women eke out a livelihood with a cow or a couple of goats.

There I interviewed a group of these women who did know about cashmere, had the combs but only one had sold 100 grams of the cleaned cashmere for a thousand Afs – about $20 – to an NGO sponsored by the Department of Agriculture in Bamiyan. This was the same rate Abdul Basir Hotak, owner of the Herat wool and skin company, paid the women there for their cleaned cashmere in 2012. I got to the bank in time, paid off our young but very capable driver, owner of the minibus that took us safely on the………kilometer trip. Panjab is still to be assessed for barak and I would like to see the state of cashmere affairs in Badakshan where Hotak with USAID help has set up another cashmere cleaning and buying center for goat owners in the northeast of Afghanistan. Other groups are getting interested in the income generation ability of barak. HELP, a German NGO with a big training center in Bamiyan center, has a class for making barak. They have one other office in Afghanistan, in Herat, wisely choosing needy areas instead of Kabul. PARSA’s head, Marnie Gustavson, wants to investigate local fabrics including barak. I told her I’d give her a copy of this report and your addresses so she can talk directly to you. Zarif Designs, a sewing workshop with international clientele, has recently made a vest from barak for a customer. Friday, 20 June 2014 Facts and Figures Barak: As we drove south people told us that Waras was the center of barak production. The main village engaged in making barak was Haft Kudi – Seven Homes- named by the grandfather who chose the site on a steep hillside where water was available. It’s about a 25 minute drive from Waras on the main road to Daikundi. We have not come across any other village so engaged so our informants were right on track. A year and a half ago, the last time I was in Bamiyan, I checked the local handicraft stores and found one very strange length of barak half of whose warp threads were loose resulting in a half flat and half wavy piece of fabric. This time I visited the same handicraft stores and found several very nice lengths of barak, warp-faced, patterned with different shades of natural brown in the warp threads and some incorporating a red thread in the warp. And finding a storekeeper wearing a vest of barak, mentioned above, was quite exciting. The overcoat at the first shop had a theatrical looked, like a coachman’s overcoat from the 18th century, with woven tape decorating the pockets. At $300 for the coat and $100 for a vest the economy of Bamiyan appears to be thriving. All of the 20 women interviewed at Haft Kudi were weavers and all helped each other with the task of spinning enough wool yarn to warp and then to weave 5 to 8 meters of fabric. The men were the “molidars” although women could also do this vigorous work of kneading the fabric which has been saturated with boiling water. The photo in Nancy Dupree’s guide book shows a man standing on the fabric which is stretched over a large flat stone and working it with his bare feet. I could imagine a washing machine doing this work just as well – if one could be found big enough to contain all eight meters of wool fabric, 90 centimeter wide at the beginning of the shrinking process. Of the total 109 women interviewed 14 out of 17 in Waras Markaz (Center) said they knew how to make barak; 20 out of 20 in Haft Kudi, 2 out of 25 in Ghosur, 18 out of 32 in Waras Sufla and 1 out of 15 in the Dohati valley in Bamiyan. Another nice surprise was that Felicitas Steinhoff, Country Director of the Bamiyan office of HELP, a German INGO, has a class of students in her vocationaql training center learning how to make barak. I did not have time to visit the class but plan to on my return to Bamiyan in a month. Cashmere (kurk, ileech): With cashmere production the story is quite different: cashmere production has not caught on at all in the areas surveyed. For one, the financial rewards are not as clear as with barak, and no market seems to have developed for it in spite of USAID and the Ministry of Agriculture putting on a country-wide campaign aimed at goat owners three years ago to take advantage of the potential income from their goats’ annual molting of their winter undercoats. During the

interview of 32 women in Lower Warase only one woman said she gathered cashmere and used it with wool for weaving. After the meeting we left the mosque and met outside a young woman who had a large plastic bagful of cashmere: she had not been present at the interviewing.

In the Dohati valley in Bamiyan Center we interviewed 15 women living on the edge of poverty. One woman had a supply of combs from the earlier campaign and had harvested about two kilos of very hairy cashmere. The cleaning of the hairs from the cashmere is time-consuming and not worth the effort unless the women know that they have a market for it. One woman they knew had sold 100 grams of cashmere for $20 to a NGO related to the Directorate of Agriculture in Bamiyan. (The “directorates” in the provincial governments carry out the policies of the ministries in the central government in Kabul).

Herati businessman Abdul Basir Hotak has been working towards increased cashmere harvesting to feed his wool and skin factory in Herat. He has been promoting this product with the help of USAID who sponsored his entry in the annual FiberExpo in New York City in July, 2011, which I attended. The Chinese and Mongols lead the world in cashmere production, with Afghanistan trailing behind: Hotak is determined to beat Mongolia and maybe he will now that he has all the technical help he needs, including a second factory in Badakshan to handle cashmere production by Badakshi maldars (herders). Cashmere yarn has been at $80 a kilogram on the internet market. The disconnect between $20 for 100 grams and $80 for a kilo is confusing – how does that work out in reality?

This is the end of the preliminary report and I know you will have questions. My apartment-mate, Rona, a dressmaker at Zarif Designs, got me a snippet of barak from a vest they made recently. One of the lighter-colored stripes looks like it has a twill design but I don’t know how the weaver could do that, do you? Our silk weaver/producer, Md Saleh, dropped by this afternoon and I showed him the pictures of the barak weavers and he was very interested as he is working on a loom for fibers other than silk. We were both visualizing a line of three or four upright looms in place of the one ground loom, allowing more women to weave at the same time instead of having to wait her turn at the one ground loom. I would hope that would bring the cost per meter down to a more affordable price.

Other survey results: Namads: 61 out of the 109 women surveyed know how to make namads. Crut: 78 out of the 109 women know how to make crut.

The desire for more learning was virtually unanimous. Only three of the 109 women did not tick off all three of the course options: theory courses, practical courses – especially sewing – and literacy courses. The enthusiasm for courses was very high.

I will find a way to get the barak sample to you, Phil. Please send me your postal address and the sample will be sent in the USA to you direct.

Sincerely presented, Mary MacMakin

Afghanistan’s Elections, Round 2

The second round of Afghanistan’s 2014 presidential elections yesterday were a success. 7 million people showed up to vote – that is approximately 60 percent of the eligible voters in Afghanistan, similar number to what we saw in the first round. Despite the success of the day, it did not go off without glitches. There were skirmishes around the country, and sadly a close relative of our Scout Director, Tamim Hamkar, was killed by Taliban related violence in Lowgar Province. We offer deepest condolences to him and his family.

Living in Afghanistan during this difficult and unpredictable time we are all affected by the violence and the risks of everyday life. However we at PARSA are proud to be part of such an important time in Afghanistan. The truth is that our national staff and Afghans in general are optimistic that this election represents a turning point for them and the politics of their country, and we are sharing in their optimism. Soon the country’s next president will be announced, and the next stage of Afghan history will begin.

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PARSA Farm: Early AM Cow Milking

Great shot

SakinaEvery morning Sakina or one of the other women in our PARSA Farm program heads over to our cow pens early in the morning to milk the three milking cows we currently have. The process takes about an hour and results in a bucket of the freshest, most healthy organic milk in the city. We bottle it in 1.5L bottles and sell it for 100 afs (approximately 2 USD) per bottle – cheaper than the UHT filled milk sold in Kabul’s grocery stores. Our 3 cows are currently producing enough milk for about 8-12 bottles daily – and PARSA staff love the creamy, fresh milk so much that we usually buy it all out before it even reaches the bazaar!

Mom cleaning Elvis

Our PARSA Farm is a “Learn and Earn” program that allows women to learn a new valuable skill while earning a small income that comes from the returns of the farm. Our PARSA Farm currently employs 10 women who will take the agriculture skills they are acquiring back to their homes and subsequently start their own small farms in the coming years.

Based on the success of our small farm and the overwhelming demand for fresh milk and milk products, “watani” (Afghan organic) eggs, and fresh vegetables, we are planning to expand our farm into a business that will help sustain PARSA in the future, allowing us to fund some of our own programs and be less reliant on external funding sources. Large scale funding sources in Afghanistan are becoming less reliable as international attention wanes, and our farm is one example of how we are responding to this challenge and working to plan a sustainable future for PARSA and our programs.

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Alyssa Learning

Learning to milk a cow – it’s not as easy as it looks!

Bamiyan Family Park

Not all of PARSA projects turn out the way we intend, sustaining themselves into the future, especially projects that involve valuable resources such as the Bamiyan Women’s Garden.  In 2007, PARSA took over the stewardship of a very special park in Bamiyan near to Share Zohak dedicated to women.  Over the course of three years we found donors to help support the development of the Bamiyan Women’s Garden into a restaurant, greenhouse and a place for women’s crafts. An unfortunate push by government and international donors for tourism had the park transferred out of our hands into the hands of a business.  Subsequently, it has been shut down to the public.  Tourism has virtually stopped in Bamiyan because of security.  This park was built with love by Arezu, a Canadian who spent 18 years in this area and also started the women’s garden in Kabul.  We hope that with the upcoming political changes, that this park will be put in the hands of an Afghan agency that will open it once more to the women and families of the area for enjoyment and an opportunity to grow small enterprises.  Of course, as we have long memories and a long term commitment to the communities of Afghanistan, we are ready to participate.

PARSA Farm: Our New Baby Cow!!


Welcome to PARSA, Elvis!!

Our new “chucha gaw” (baby cow) has finally been born. Isn’t he adorable!? These pictures are from the morning after he was born, he is already walking strong. Everyone is very happy to welcome him, and Yasin decided to give him the name Elvis – and he is already stealing our hearts, just like his namesake. Welcome to the family, Elvis!

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Our Friday Brunch crew came to say hi to Elvis – no one could help but smile

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Creating PARSA Fashion

Fashion DawnFor anyone who has checked out our PARSA Online Catalog, you’ll already know that we make plenty of beautiful and colorful clothing and other items. Nevertheless, we are trying to diversify our products and come up with new styles, both local and foreign, to expand our customer base. Our wonderful tailors are on-board with our ideas and yesterday we had our first Fashion Creation Meeting to brainstorm and dream up new designs. Dawn headed the meeting, entertaining all of us by donning a variety of outrageous outfits to demonstrate how fashion changes for different occasions and for different people – I think all the tailors caught on!

If anyone has fashion suggestions for us, Contact Us or send pictures to The more great designs we come up with, the more our customer base will grow, and the more women-tailors we will be able to support in our Women’s Economic Programs. So help us get some ideas going!

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PARSA Farm: Gul Ahmad’s Special Pigeons


Gul Ahmad Loves his Special Pigeons!!

Gul Ahmad has been a driver at PARSA for 10 years. The joy of his life are his pigeons which he keeps at PARSA in the cow barn. Keeping pigeons in Afghanistan is an ancient tradition. Pigeon keepers usually keep pigeon coops on their roofs, and every night at dusk they let their pigeons out for exercise. The game of pigeons is that the pigeons are taught to swoop into another flock and capture pigeons and bring them back to the home coop.

Check out Reese’s video with a Mexican twist!!

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